I have a 96' m6 Z28, I recently purchased it and the person I bought it from had done some work to it, from what I am told the main things done were a cam (CC306) and "some port work" to the heads and intake manifold.
I was also told the car was tuned but it seems it still has alot more left on the table and drivability is not that good.

SO, now to my question(s).
I also have a whole other complete engine, PCM,and harness but no tranny from a 94' A4 camaro that I am going to put in my IROC, but with a carb and TH400, so PCM will not be used.

So if I am going to try and get the car tuned can/should I:

A. send off obd1 pcm, to get tuned and made to work with m6, since I would like to use scanmaster for OBD1 on it to read/clear DTC's.And I will possibly also be deleting the cat that is there now and do not even have rear o2 sensors.

B. send off obd2 pcm to get tuned leave PCM as is, but cannot use all functions of scan master, and just have the rear o2's disabled in the pcm?

C. could I do the tuning to the obd1 PCM with something like LT1EDIT, and make it possible to use with the m6, and use the resistor mod for the KM?

I also Know that the knock sensors are different and if I run the obd1 PCM to obd2, so would I just use the resistor mod or would that just be programmed differently into PCM and would I have to do any other PCM mods for the reverse lock out and (not that I want it to function) skipshift also?
And also since I don't have flow numbers for "some port work" could I just send in say an e-mail or a disk with a datalog from my LM-1 to get the tune more spot on?

SO what should I do and what would it cost me?

 

any suggestions guys?, Plan to have the wideband installed on the car hopefully this weekend.

 

If you have the choice of OBDI or OBDII, I would use OBDI. I'm not a tuner but
the OBDI PCM works much better for my 97. Here is the dyno graph comparison
for OBDII / OBDI for my engine. This is with no other change but the PCM.

Click for OBDII / OBDI Dyno Comparison

 

unknown port work and not 100% on the cam i would suggest you have the car tuned on a dyno and then road tuned to fix the drivability, its worth the extra money

 

If you can tune yourself your better off there because you can log and make changes from that. LT1EDIT is an OBD1 based tuning software that will enable you to select whether your M6 or A4 it is not pre determined in the PCM. Use the OBD1 PCM and do all the tuning yourself. As for the Knock sensors they are the same from 93-97. The resistor mod only works with the 93 speeddensity ECMs. You can disable the knock sensor but be VERY careful if you go that route!

 

the cam I was told was a cc306 I was just trying to give some other information I thought would be needed, the thing I Don't know about is the port work, which I am sure would be a huge variable in what the tune should be.
I would have like this idea but the nearest place that can dyno tune my car is like 6 hrs away,and not too mention it is hard for me to get days off at my work and I work 75+ hrs every week.

SO basically what I can do is just get the OBD1 PCM-put it in my car, get LT1EDIT and program everything I need to without any PCM or wiring mods whatsoever?
then just log with my datalogger and wideband til I set it up(I know the tuning process is more complex, but basaically right?)

 

one more question- is the obd1 and obd2 have the same wiring on the diagnostic port?

 

so just to make sure before I try and plug in the ECU- I do not need to do a mod from the 96 to 94 PCM right it is just because I thought that the OBD1 Knock sensor was 3300-4500 Ohms and the OBD2 was 93k-107k Ohms.