Seems like I have seen alot of post where it sounds like the ignition switch is bad, but the members dont ever report if the car is fixed or not by replacing the switch.

So what exactly did your car do when the ignition switch failed.

My car is perfect for about 5-10mins of driving, then I notice that the volt gauge is slightly lower then where it had been (very slightly, but definilty lower). At this point, after I am at a dead stop and starting to move again, the car will just completly die out of nowhere and the comes back on within a milisecond, its off just long enough to jerk the hell out of you. After it does this, the speedo and tach ussually start going up in blocks of like 5+mph and I dont think that the speedo is even accurate when it is going through this. Then the car will be normal again for a minute or two, then it starts this routine. I am going to replace the switch tomorrow (as nobody had an ACdelco around here, had to order it), and I will let you guys know.

So if you have had one fail, and replaced it and it worked, let me know your symptoms. If anyone has had symptoms like mine and the switch didnt fix it, let me know what you had to replace.

Thanks,
James

 

I had to replace mine 3 times.The first two times the car would not start and the only thing that worked was the head lights.The last time the car would run but my turning singals,heater motor and rpm gauge didn't work.

 

Engine dies and all gauges and lights on the gauge panel go out. May occur at any time. Length of time can vary.

 

well mine right now has every light but the ses light on even the seatbelt light and is sitting idle at 1k and gauge is on 12 and moves back and forth. could this be it? also any guide to change one on here

 

That doesn't sound like the typical switch problem. There is a guide for replacement on my Tech Page.

 

All my gages were dropping and surging, then if I tried to start the car it would start and jump to about 2,000 RPM's and die, then not start anymore.

 

Mine wouldn't start and after jacking with it enough it would begin to work. Then once it just shut off while i was driving, that was nice. My gauges would also just start jumping up and down.

 

Got the new one in, and everything seems to be good. Drove it quite a bit today and couldnt get it to do what it used to do. I found that if you've done the T56 swap then you should get the manual switch since its half the price and doesnt have that cable connected to it.

Thanks,
James

 

Good to hear. Was your old switch kind of burnt up a little bit?

 

Mine had the same exact symptoms as yours did and it was the ignition switch. Except mine would turn on then sputter than turn off along with your other symptoms.

Sorry just read your post and saw you replaced it.

 

Nothing looked burnt at all, and the car is still running good so it seems that the switch was the problem. The switch is a little discolored, but that is to be expected after 10 years of service, no meltin at all, connector looks perfect.

-James

 

My car would shut off on the highway. The speedo would fluctuate like 10 mph in either direction fo my actual speed, then the whole car would shut off. Now, when I start the car, right when I let go of the ignition key the car shuts off. I have to physically keep the key turned with my hand for the car to keep running. ALso, my key just got stuck in the ignition cylinder. I had to wiggle it around for like 10 minutes before I could get it to come out. I am about ot go to discount and buy another ing. switch.

 

If the key is stuck in the cylinder you have other problems as well besides the ignition switch.

 

Really? Because I have read where others had the same problem, and it turned out to be the ignition switch. Should I replace the ignition cylinder also?

 

The gauge problem sounds like ignition switch but if you are having trouble getting the key out it sounds like you have a problem with they key/cylinder.