what bolt ons to out run a ls1
what type of bolt ons would help a lt1 run with an ls1?
please list all..ex throttle body, injectors?
im thinking about having the heads ported and polished in a few months..and a cam? but which one i have no clue!
i want to start out with the small stuff then go internal...
thanks for your time,
steve
please list all..ex throttle body, injectors?
im thinking about having the heads ported and polished in a few months..and a cam? but which one i have no clue!
i want to start out with the small stuff then go internal...
thanks for your time,
steve
dont waste time on the small stuff
IMO I would say forget about all the small things like pulleys, bellows, throttle bodies (all the basic bolt-ons) and go straight for the real hp. I wish I would not have wasted $2,000 on bolt-ons and went straight for something like an LT4 HOTCAM kit. Heavy duty timing chain and custom tuning to complement. You can afford that setup on a skimpy college salary and have some REAL hp gains.
ps: with the cam kit, chain, and tunning u will take a stock LS1
ps: with the cam kit, chain, and tunning u will take a stock LS1
i have heard that, that kit wasnt so hot!...i've been reading up alot about this cc306 cam or something...i want something that is gonna be for all out power...i dont want to mess with the bottom end till it comes apart.
but i plan on having the heads ported and polished, with a good cam, and a good set of rr...i'm willing to spend about $2,000 on the head and cam if that will make my car a total ls1 killer!
this might sound dumb, but could you guys list some more ideas on what it would take to beat a few ls1's...or am i on the right track?
thanks again,
steve
but i plan on having the heads ported and polished, with a good cam, and a good set of rr...i'm willing to spend about $2,000 on the head and cam if that will make my car a total ls1 killer!
this might sound dumb, but could you guys list some more ideas on what it would take to beat a few ls1's...or am i on the right track?
thanks again,
steve
I have Mac headers, 4in. y pipe with no cats, 1.6 rockers, hooker cat back, K&N fipk, granatelli MAF(much better than porting your stocker), 1LE elbow, accel 300+ign, msd 8.5 wires, NGK plugs, !cags, !air, !egr, LT4 starter, slp HURST short shifter, RAM clutch, and rear end gears and i can take a LS1 with an intake and auto.. my buddy has one and i hang with him from dead stop to 60 and start pulling.
EDIT: I START PULLING ON HIM /\
EDIT: I START PULLING ON HIM /\
Last edited by CoUnTryMuZiCZ28; Oct 1, 2003 at 01:53 PM.
I out ran a M6 LS1 recently on the street. I had:
-shortie headers
-373's
-3000 stall
-tires
and the other freebies. I had him for awhile but had we had much more distance, he would have won, unless I mashed the button.
-shortie headers
-373's
-3000 stall
-tires
and the other freebies. I had him for awhile but had we had much more distance, he would have won, unless I mashed the button.
Last edited by 95 Mystic TA; Oct 1, 2003 at 01:39 PM.
The CC306 is not for everyone...I'm not saying you wouldn't like it; however, with an A4 I'd suggest a MINIMUM of a 3,000 stall and you will definitely need custom tuning. As for the heads/cam idea, I don't know who you're having do the heads, but if you're planning on paying less than $2K for that and the cam I'm guessing they aren't real aggressive. Might I advise you on what I'd do personally after having tried multiple combinations. 1st off, don't forget that you'll have to start worrying about traction so you'll need to do a few relatively cheap suspension mods to help you get out of the hole a little easier. I'd recommend (a) lower control arm relocation brakets. These usually go for around $100 and can drop 1-2 tenths off your 60' time when compared to a stock ride-height/stock suspension car. (b) adjustable torque arm. While this is the most expensive piece to replace, with proper adjustment, I've ripped off a 1.68 60' on a car that had bolt-ons and a 3200 stall on stock Z-rated 245/50 16 tires! (c) If $$ permits I'd recommend some tubular or boxed LCAs also, but w/ the torque arm, these won't be absolutely necessary.
Now for the power mods. Of course a CAI and the free mods are recommended, a cat-back or exhaust cut-out is a big increase to (cut-out will save you $$). Then, I'd ditch the idea of the heads for now. I'd supplement this w/ a 75-100 wet shot of nitrous. That will give you an honest 75-100 rear wheel horse power. Try finding heads that will do that. This will already make you faster than LS1 cars.Then, I'd go ahead and do a cam (the hotcam kit put my car into the 11s w/ heads and I've seen 30-40 hp gains on stock-headed cars). A LT4HC, CC305, or other comparable cam would still give your car good idle/street manners. You will need headers to realize any real gains with ANY cam. I recently installed a LT4 HC in a stock manifold car and it only picked up 7rwhp.
So lets do the math
w/ bolt-ons......................................235-240 rwhp (conservative)
LT4 HC or CC305.............................+20 (conservative)
1 3/4" headers.................................+15-20 (w/ the cam) 10 (w/o)
100 HP shot N20...............................+85-105 (pending on tuning)
That will put you into the area where you can play w/ the modified LS1 cars. Now, I know someone will get on here and dispute the "they" didn't get those HP numbers from those mods, but other people HAVE.
The 3000-3200 stall combined with the suspension mods will give you a HUGE holeshot advantage...considering most LS1 cars cut 1.9-2.1 60' and you'll see a 1.7 or better w/ practice. Then the extra horsepower will guarantee you stay out front.
And yes, You could probably completely for-go getting the cam and headers and still whip up on an LS1 car unless he had some significant bolt-ons. Plus you'll save money when compared to getting heads.
Now for the power mods. Of course a CAI and the free mods are recommended, a cat-back or exhaust cut-out is a big increase to (cut-out will save you $$). Then, I'd ditch the idea of the heads for now. I'd supplement this w/ a 75-100 wet shot of nitrous. That will give you an honest 75-100 rear wheel horse power. Try finding heads that will do that. This will already make you faster than LS1 cars.Then, I'd go ahead and do a cam (the hotcam kit put my car into the 11s w/ heads and I've seen 30-40 hp gains on stock-headed cars). A LT4HC, CC305, or other comparable cam would still give your car good idle/street manners. You will need headers to realize any real gains with ANY cam. I recently installed a LT4 HC in a stock manifold car and it only picked up 7rwhp.
So lets do the math
w/ bolt-ons......................................235-240 rwhp (conservative)
LT4 HC or CC305.............................+20 (conservative)
1 3/4" headers.................................+15-20 (w/ the cam) 10 (w/o)
100 HP shot N20...............................+85-105 (pending on tuning)
That will put you into the area where you can play w/ the modified LS1 cars. Now, I know someone will get on here and dispute the "they" didn't get those HP numbers from those mods, but other people HAVE.
The 3000-3200 stall combined with the suspension mods will give you a HUGE holeshot advantage...considering most LS1 cars cut 1.9-2.1 60' and you'll see a 1.7 or better w/ practice. Then the extra horsepower will guarantee you stay out front.
And yes, You could probably completely for-go getting the cam and headers and still whip up on an LS1 car unless he had some significant bolt-ons. Plus you'll save money when compared to getting heads.
Originally posted by EviLBoX
With my mods I've beaten a few LS1's (probably stock) in the 1/8th mile.
With my mods I've beaten a few LS1's (probably stock) in the 1/8th mile.
I would just think of what kinda gains you want and concentrate on that. To figure our HP with combinations and stuff is already difficult let alone trying to figure out what the other guy is running and how to beat him.
Good luck
I have beaten my share of LS1s, mostly stock but a couple had a lid and exhaust.
My power parts are:
CAI
LT headers and header mufflers
Ed Wright tuning
my LT1 motor is stock internally.
I also have
3.73s
2600 TCI stall
BMR TA
Eibach drag launch kit
Nittos
Weld XP wheels
SFCs
LCAs
I can usually jump off the line and hold my advantage but the modded ones will start pulling on me up top, not hard but given enough time they would catch me.
My power parts are:
CAI
LT headers and header mufflers
Ed Wright tuning
my LT1 motor is stock internally.
I also have
3.73s
2600 TCI stall
BMR TA
Eibach drag launch kit
Nittos
Weld XP wheels
SFCs
LCAs
I can usually jump off the line and hold my advantage but the modded ones will start pulling on me up top, not hard but given enough time they would catch me.
Ok ill be down to the dollar with ya.. i know you probably dont have ALOT of money to waste away... besides this post says "bolt ons" cam and heads are by far not bolt ons well heads kinda are but u know what i mean.. I would go with some gears and headers granatelli MAF cat back, CAI, maybe throw some rockers in there if you want to take bolt ons a ste further(usually can be found on here for cheap), good tires, ignition system and have some one do LT1 edit on your car wether its stock or not.. i went from a 14.1 at 98 to a 13.6 from stock to CAI and exhaust and LT1 edit, oh and a short shifter... what i mentioned above will let you woop a LS1 if its stock, so if you want to find out how youd do against a modded one just add the mods and compare from stock... hope this helps.. forget the cam for now till ya get money and time.... if you have the money then go right ahead though, i would but im just saying if you wont have the money..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dbusch22
Forced Induction
6
Oct 31, 2016 11:09 AM
Z28Wilson
Automotive News / Industry / Future Vehicle Discussion
7
Aug 1, 2002 04:27 PM
Black Sunshine/ 00SS
Automotive News / Industry / Future Vehicle Discussion
2
Jul 17, 2002 08:41 PM



