Ok, I just bought a 95 Z/28 A4. It has a magnaflow muffler, a shift improver of some sort, and I believe it has the switch that makes the fan turn on before 225 degrees. What should I do to it next. I was thinking about the hpp3, but I know they aren't that great. But then again, I don't wanna get it custom programmed until I get a good list of stuff done to it. Also, should I cut my catalytic converter off. We do not have emissions test here, so that's not an issue.

 

People will tell you to steer clear of the HPP3. There are cheaper and better alternatives out there like a tune from either of our site sponsors, MADZ28 and PCM4Less. Look into the vendor index for their websites to see more information on them.

A cold air induction system would be a nice upgrade. Moroso, K&N, Lingenfelter and SLP are popular brands.

After doing that I would look into a nice set of headers. Since theres a million threads on header selection, I would do a search on those to find out more about which ones will suit your needs.

Lastly, the only way I would remove the catylitic converter is if I was switching to a set of non-emmmissions headers. Gutting the cat will not give you much if any hp, just add sound and make your exhaust smell.

 

If I was starting over I would get suspension mods and a good drag radial. Getting the car to hook up will have you winning alot more races than you think.
Headers will be a great improvement, stall and gears were a very good seat of the pants improvement.

 

Start off with a good cold-air intake and a 160 thermostat. Headers offer huge gains, since you don't have emissions to worry about get a good set of longtubes. Also, as already stated, some good suspension and tires will significantly lower your et.

 

get all the little things done like CAI, 160 stat, free mods, ect


Then go for better gearing in the rear, LT headers, and either an off-road X or Y pipe....I would personally go for a Stall converter last..You wanna make power up top right??

Then I would do some suspension work

 

Can you run true dual exhaust on these cars? I never thought it was possible. Not easily anyway.

 

thats actually what Im switching to in the next few weeks


Im having it dumped before the rear diff

 

These cars were never designed to run a true dual exhaust.
It can be done though, I run Hooker LTs with purple horny header mufflers and turndowns (true duals) but I would never do it with a lowered car. I have scrapes on my mufflers and my collectors have hit pretty hard and my car is NOT lowered. I recently did some major weight reduction and that actually raised the car up some and I worm clamped the mufflers directly to my subframes to get them even further up to the bottom of the car.
I actually have great ground clearance now but as you might expect the car vibrates ALOT with the exhaust pipes clamped to the subframes.
But with the loud exhaust and sparse interior it just adds to the ambiance.
Slip fit collectors would be a good idea if your going to go true duals.

 

First use this site and the search button.

Common Bolt On's

Cold Air Induction: Lingenfelter, SLP, Moroso, etc - 8-12rwhp
3" Stainless Catback: Many brands 8-12rwp
Midlength or Longtube headers: With no emissions, I'd say do Longtubes and off road Y. 15rwhp+ (huge on are cars with these crap manifolds)
1.6 Full Roller Rockers: 8-15rwhp
Electric Waterpump: $150-200 10rwhp/10rwtq
Madwolf (Ion Soltan) Custom PCM tuning: 10rwhp+
ASP Crank Replacement Pulley 23%
Aluminum Driveshaft
160 Degree Thermostat
Airfoil
1LE elbow
plugs/wires/tune up

Drivetrain:

First figure out what gears you have, then decide on wether to upgrade to 3.73's or 4.10's for your application

Also look at your goals for the car, track, camshaft, etc for a torque converter selectiont o fit your needs. I suggest calling Pro Built Automatics for a recommendation.

B&M or other brand transmission cooler for Auto cars. Help preserve that A4

Suspension: What ever gives you a problem replace. I got wheel hop, so I did rear LCA's. Too much body roll, Sway bar. Frame twist, sub frame connectors.

Fun stuff, heads, cam, S/C, T/C, N2O. I highly recommend getting your bolt on's and suspension/traction right before stepping into this area.

-Dustin-

 

if i had to do over cai, exhaust, then stall, headers. stall will make huge gains

 

This is an awsome thread to put a sticky up top too. Do any of the admins agree???

 

a great thread only if there wasn't an identical thread every week/

i say do the cai first. it is one of the cheaper mods and gives a noticable improvement.

 

I would agree with the CAI first, then headers. Leave the cats unless you just think you have to get rid of them. I would say wait on the suspension and drag radials untill after the above. Ive drove several stock/auto lt1's with a step above junk street tires, that wouldnt break loose short of power breaking.

 

I'm going to go against the grain here...

Start with 3.73's, a posi unit and new inner/outer bearings; plus a T/A cast cover with the pre-load bolts.

Also, add a good quality converter, such as an Edge.

Finally, add an LT4 knock module, a 160 thermostat and a custom tune from someone like pcmforless.


Oh, and tires of course. Any decent set will do if you are drag racing; because you'll need to get a set of track tires anyway. Real slicks or DOT slicks... it's up to you.

If you like the road race stuff then get yourself those relatively new Nitto NT01's and keep your stock converter.

Finally, get yourself some lighter aluminum wheels. Centerline has some fairly affordable stuff. And try to stay small. No "dubs" I mean. Too much weight. The smaller the wheel diameter, the lighter the weight.

Dead weight is worth 1/10th of a second in the quarter for every hundred pounds, but rotational weight in your wheels is worth three times that much.
And yes...
I've seen that rule of thumb borne out in real life.

Don't start doing any engine related mods, including exhaust; until you are fairly sure you know what you want to do with your engine. BTW... There's nothing wrong with a properly designed single exhaust. The key is; "proper design". You want to be sure you have the CFM flow you need.

 

All I want is like a mid 13 second everyday driver street car