I want to know what guys think a good suspension mod is for getting your 60 ft times down . I have a 97 TA M6 with a blower so im going to need some help hooking up bigtime any help would be great i know i need DR's i going to be getting them soon but i also want to know what else really helps.. thanks

 

Personally I recommend for drag-racing:
1. Subframe connectors or better yet
2. Rollcage
3. Lower Control Arms
4. Relocation brackets
5. BMR Torque Arm w/ driveshaft loop
E.t.c...

 

If you were just doing ONE suspension mod I would do LCAs.

If you have more money then do relocation brackets and an airbag in the rear passenger spring.

Let me know when you're ready to buy, I know a guy with awesome prices.

 

Basic refreshing of all your bushings, front and back would never hurt. Factory rubber to polyurethane.

Removal of front sway bar, detaches the front and allows it to plant he rear wheels better ans you shave like 30ish lbs of the front end. WARNING your drivablity WILL suffer, taking turns and what not.

If youw ant to be able to drive it home with out worry, at lease disconnect the sway bar links, you wont get the weight reduction but it will allow the front clip to lift and transfer tot he back.

Inflate front tires to at least 40 psi.

Deflate your DR's to start at 18, spin the tires in a open parking lot, measure the foot print, mess with the PSI's until you get the biggest patch. thats with in +/- 1-2 psi your optimal psi for the track, just take note of the humidty and temp of the day you test and when you go to the track so you can be accuate.

Usueally set your torque arm -1 or -2 degree for a good launch, too much and your wheel hopping.

Honestly we now are just worried bout is your 10 bolt rear. Unless you got a 12 bolt, or a beefed up 10 bolt, any 60 foots below 1.9's are asking for a blow up.

If your rear is perfect (i.e. 12 bolt) there are tons more suspesnion peices you can do.

Also v6 springs or a good pair of worn out v8's help make that rear squat, shocks too are a good thing to look into.

Lasty everything siad by robbie is a great choice. Try a bolt in rollcage and see if you like the idea of having one before you get one thats a WELD in.

 

Thanks guy's you gave me some good advice ,,i do have subframes already but i forgot to tell you i have lowered it 1.5 inches all the way around i know that hurts but it looks cool also what does relocation brackets do and i still have the stock rear which i know wont be lasting with close to 400 rwhp when there done doing the upgrades Oh yeah how about adjustable rear shocks are they any good?

 

basic bolt-on's and supercharged and not at 400rwhp yet? i thought that would net you above that?

 

I loved my KBDD SFCs. I don't know if they help alot in drag racing, but they are GREAT for all around feel of the car. If I could only do one suspension mod for drag racing it would either be LCAs or a nice torque arm.

 

LCA brackets help to re-center your pinion angle after you lower your car.

- Brent

 

Thanks i guess i will be getting the brackets for the LCA's ..
CIVIC HUNTER:
I said i should have close to 400 rwhp i dont know what it is going to make it's at the shop now getting the heads,headers,OR pipe,cutout,extra fuel pump,larger fuel injectors,more boost ,and a wide band dyno tune by CARTEK in NJ. so i figure low so if it is i wont be disapointed...

 

The subframe connectors will bring you the most enjoyment overall as well as preserve body integrity with the hard launches. I had the Kenny Brown DDs welded in and boxed in the stock LCAs at the same time.

 

LCA brackets help to re-center your pinion angle after you lower your car.

- Brent


__________________
I thought that the APHR would recenter it and the adjustable TA would help set the pinion angle. So how exactly does the LCA brackets help if the car isn't lowered? TIA

 

I'll do the best I can to explain, someone help me out if I'm off here.

If you're looking at the rear of your car from the top, think left/right = 'x' axis, and looking at the side of the car, forward/aft = 'y' axis, and the vertical axis the 'z' axis.

When you lower your car, the pinion angle tends to sag towards the ground ('y' axis negative). LCA brackets, due to their mounting location, pull the pinion back up and help re-center. Due to laws of physics others might be able to explain, negative 'y' axis is what causes loss of traction. With an adjustable aftermarket torque arm, you will have an extra point to help adjust the pinion angle, or 'y' axis as I have described. Adjusting the angle to a slight positive side of 0 degrees neutral aids in traction. One thing to remember is that too much will only cause binding of the u-joints, that's why you can't just crank it all the way up.

An adjustable aftermarket panhard rod provides for the 'x' axis adjustment.

I probably made this clear as mud but maybe you get the picture.

- Brent

 

So, setting your LCAs to the lowest setting on the relocation brackets would be bad on a stock "suspensioned" car? I have done this and it feels as if it bites better than stock...

 

Nope, you got it right. + pinion angle is much better than -

- Brent

 

This may sound like a dumb question but where exactly are the end links... And if there is a website or picture in how to do it, it's very much appreciated... Thanks