i just want to know what i should ask for, what do i need done and what i dont need done. i dont want to pay for extra stuff if i dont need it to be done.

im going with .30 over pistons, stock style crank and h beam rods.

also im trying to decide between splayed 4 bolt mains and straight 4 bolt mains, leaning toward the staright 4 bolt mains, leanign toward the straight 4 bolt. but i need to know about clearance issues with the oil dipstick.

thanks

 

I guess we need to know why you are rebuilding, and what your goals for the new one are?

You are gonna want the machine shop to bore .030, hottank the block, deck the block, install the cambearings and freeze plugs, and line hone the block. you should also mill the heads

EDIT: also gonna need to get the block drilled for the 4 bolt caps. how about balancing of the motor?

 

im rebuilding cause i dont trust the bottom end i have now.

the heads have been milled, the crank is internally ballanced, the rods are balanced to +/- .1gram *i think*. the pistons im not sure of yet, there on the way.


okay so i need them to hottank it, deck it, bore it .30 over, install the cam bearings, what about the crank bearings? and freeze plugs, and line hone.


so i think im going with the straight 4 bolt as many complain about the dipstick issue, but is there a dipstick issue with the staight 4 bolt main?

my goals are hopping to be near 400rwhp NA and another 150-200 shot of N2O using a progressive controller to even out the blast.

 

tell em you want a bore that goes all the way to the edge of the block...


im thinkin... 1.25 inches...

 

i dont want a 383, i wanted a 355. i dont want the extra torque considering im using so much N20. that and i dont want to get a 12 bolt and have my tranny blow up and have to go to a mcleod clutch etc. i daily drive this car and the 355 is sufficient.

the crank is a scat.

 

Im pretty sure the whole rotating assembly has to be balanced all together?

Making my car a 383 vs a 355 cost 80 bucks for block clearancing.

 

lol, but i dont need a 383 i daily drive this car and i rarely visit the track. i just wanted to build it up for the ocasional streetrace. but yeah back onto topic.


okay so i need them to hottank it, deck it, bore it .30 over, install the cam bearings, what about the crank bearings? and freeze plugs, and line hone.


so i think im going with the straight 4 bolt as many complain about the dipstick issue, but is there a dipstick issue with the staight 4 bolt main?

do i even need a 4 bolt main?

so i need to take the whole rotating assembly in to get rebalanced?

 

whoever assembles the motor will install the main/rod bearings.

I doubt you would need a 4 bolt main especially with a progressive controller, just make sure you get some arp main studs, and make sure the machine shop line hones it with the studs.

I am almost positive that the rotating assembly must be balanced all together, and they will need the flywheel and balancer also. balancing cost me 400 bucks.

EDIT: in case you wanted prices:

balance motor 400
freeze plugs 10
main studs 75
cam bearings 22
mill heads (I SUGGEST YOU DO THIS) 50
bore 120
hottank 30
deck block 120
install cam bearings 30
line hone 150
install freeze plugs 10

 

okay so they machine shop then would :

hottank it, deck it, bore it .30 over, install the cam bearings, and freeze plugs, and line hones the studs for the main caps. so i shouldnt let them talk me into anything else that i dont need.


im also using h beam rods, does the block need to be clearanced for this?

do they make the oil journals bigger in lt1s? i hear they do this when they rebuild turbo buick motors but is this needed on ours?

as for the rotating assembly the crank i got is internally balanced, the rods are balanced as well, the pistons are on the way in and ill have to check with the shop if they are balanced or not. or do i need everything balance to each other? and i think i need to zero balance the flywheel and balancer.

thanks for all your replies

 

should be all you need.

block should only need to be clearanced for the extra crank throw which you dont have

I think everything has to balance to all the other parts, dont quote me though, ask your machine shop.

 

Crankshaft is neutral balanced on the front but will have to be balanced with the flywheel.

 

so i have to zero balance the flywheel then? scat claims its balanced ready to install out of the box.

 

RCF, thats how stock is, his doesnt have to be like that. I believe my motor is fully internal balance. flywheel and everything behind it and the balancer are neutral.

It is questionable if it is balanced straight out of the box. alot of them say that, but they arent.

 

okay ill have the crank and rods checked out by more then one shop to be safe. but scat is a reputable brand.

 

you cant do straight 4 bolt mains on a 2 block! you have to get SPLAYED main caps which means the holes WILL HAVE to be drilled at an angle