crap, i was abotu to say - a 4 bolt shortblock for $1500 no core charge would be sweet....

ah well .... anywhere you can get a pre-assembled LT1 shortblock for $1500? no core :P

 

Thats exactly what I was getting at. I know exactly what your talking about and I feel your pain, bro.

I know. I've been meaning to change it to "dreaming".I knew I was going to get hit on that sooner or later. And the 6200RPM, Thats exactly what Lloyd said I'd puke out at. I was told that close to 400 RWHP is more realistic so we'll just have to see, but I am trying to be positive!

Fred, I got the point. I agreed with you about the cost. After reading my post I know see how that it "sorta" makes sense. I never was good at getting things across, ask my Ex-wife To stand corrected , by Fred , I can see how it was misleading.One thing is for sure, your gonna spend money with these LT1 engines. I often wondered how others said it only cost them a 1500 to completely rebuild. Either they are lying and don't want to admit what they spent or they cut corners, they had too. My brain only seems to function as more, more , more so maybe they are doing just an overhaul, something which seems a waste, FOR ME. My car is not my main source of Transpportation, .I could have easily gone another 20k+ before rebuilding but I just plain got bored with it.Besides there wasn't much left to bolt on and I wasn't lookiong for the tremendous horsepower increase that comes from stickers so I had to go into the engine. I felt compelled to spend all that money I had saved over the past year

 

fgreenmachine...it costs you almost 900 dollars for machining?????????????? dear god, i can get it done for 56 bucks...including hot tank, bore, honing, slaying the block for 4 bolt caps.

 

56 bucks?
$100 bucks to clean and chase threads and cook the block.
$35 Clearance Block on mill
$150 Bore w/ plates
$200 4 bolt caps conversion
$150 Align bore
$100 purchase and install cam bearings, freeze plugs, etc.
The engine builder has a great reputation so maybe I am paying a little more but probably no more than a 100 extra, I'll have to look at my receipts closer, somehow I came up with 900 but still, I am a long ways off of $56. I could ship to your machine shop and have the work done, shipped back to me and still be ahead. Did you mean $560?

 

I just got done doing a 355. I'm still using the stock crank and rods. SRP Pistons. Machine work $550, Pistons & Rings $500ish, ARP Bolts (Rods,Crank, Heads)$150-$200, Misc Supplies.. It's really not that expensive, now if you are going to replace the crank and rods, go to a 383.

On mine I lightend the valvetrain up a little, compression was bumped up a little (12.5 to 1), new cam, heads worked on again..Just keeps adding up. Not to mention a different converter now.. Oh, and I race it at the track just about every weekend.

 

negative green machine, that was a 56 dollars. It's 8 dollars per cylinder. He's a nice guy and does not charge me to hot tank. Anything else will be extra. He did the machining for my bracket motor and I built it. Runs very strong with 100 miles on it already. That block cost me...225? I'll find out when I get back home.

 

I can't believe he charged you $56 for 4 bolt conversion. I can't find anywhere to do it for less that $550 just for the machining of the 4 bolt conversion or splayed mains. Then the caps are not cheap either. A splayed main setup will end up costing $800.

 

I added in the assembly to get the higher figure. $300 to assemble. I don't have the tools or the time.

....I know what you mean about the 4 bolt splayed caps. I, instead, used regular 4 bolt caps. I won't be revving the hell out of it as the cam will be out of power around 6200 RPM. I did stud the mains though so that should help a little more .

... Sounds like a hell of a nice guy!! Wish I knew someone like that. When you say $225, are you talking about the purchase of another block other than the one originally with the car. I bought a used block of Ebay so I could still drive me car until I was ready to do heads. Then I tore it up but by then it was Early November and the snow was gonna be flyin soon anyway.

 

Alright thanks for the help guys so probably 4-6k or more for a decent build up and it'd probably be wiser to go 383 anyways. Now... say you just rebuild a 350, how much would that cost. Mines running great and i have no intention or need, just curious. I saw a kit on summit for 500, you need that, gaskets, and machine work of course. how much wil lthat usually end up running?

 

Not to hi jack the thread or anything... but I want to build a 355 and strap on a blower or turbo... just not adding the turbo/sc right away... save up for that because that would be crazy.

I just want to forge my rotating assembly so it can handle the boost set to like 12 psi? You think thats a stupid idea? Because I just had the valvetrain replaced completely...

 

This is the link for the kit. It is mostly complete minus cam , lifter and timing components. The gasket set looks to be complete The pistons are forged and once you get your crank turned I am sure you tell them what undersize bearing you need. I would think a complete stock rebuild could come around 2k as long as you keep it a "stock" rebuild. You'll need to resize your rods and have new hardware installed. Don't re use your rod bolts, cheap insurance with the new ones! You'll want to refreshen the heads also, depending on how many miles you do have on them.

 

Edit: I forgot the link in the last post

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...rchType=Engine


This is the link for the kit. It is mostly complete minus cam , lifter and timing components. The gasket set looks to be complete The pistons are forged and once you get your crank turned I am sure you tell them what undersize bearing you need. I would think a complete stock rebuild could come around 2k as long as you keep it a "stock" rebuild. You'll need to resize your rods and have new hardware installed. Don't re use your rod bolts, cheap insurance with the new ones! You'll want to refreshen the heads also, depending on how many miles you do have on them.

 

The link didn't work. I see it comes with plastigauge, if you wanna gamble on it use it. Pay for someone with the "proper" tools to assemble. While there are those that say they haven't had any problems using it, it isn't ideal for a performance rebuild and todays engines run tighter clearances and they last a hell of a lot longer, just my .02 on platicrap, I mean plasti gauge