Well, i've been having the usual "just finished my h/c, loss of power" anyways, i had a cracked opti b/c the bolts i used for my crank pulley were too long and kissed the bottom of the opti and cracked it, causing extreme arcing. Figured that was my power problem, change opti went for a test drive. Now my rockers have been ticking loudly for the last couple weeks, thats why i havent been driving it hard. So today i decided i was gonna go in and check to see how many came loose that i needed to tighten. Found out why it was ticking so loud, i have 3 collapsed lifters on my DRIVER side, i didnt even open up the passenger side. I can push them all the way down with my hand, the other ones are fine. So i guess ill be calling Comp to get them to replace them. Only about 2-3 months of driving on these, got them for christmas. Is there any other lifter thats comparable to the Comp R's that can take .600+ lift?

 

Lift has nothing to do with the type of lifter. It's all about spring pressure. Your factory lifters will get you past 500FWHP and 7000RPM's. If your seat pressure isn't above 150# and nose pressure over 400# they will work.
As much trouble as people have with the Comp lifters I can't say they are much better than junk.
Never have put them in any customer engines for that reason. IF you need anything more than factory lifter's you need a mech roller.I have not found a hyd roller cam that the factory lifters won't work with Ford or Chevy.

 

well the more lift you have the more spring pressure you need correct? to keep the valve float to a minimum or eliminate? they have what 320 open? so what lifter besides a comp R can take that, the only reason i bought them was because lloyd elliot said i needed to used them because a stock set would be destroyed.

 

The cam ramp speed and the weight of the parts determain the spring pressure not the lift or anything concerning lift.
Like I said the factory lifters are good to go.320# is not ungodly pressure and they will loose 20-25# after breakin.Most people don't understand how hyd lifters work.If ya got oil pressure and the check is in good shape they are fine.As far as the rollers they are really tough and your ramp speed will not set up a "slaping" of the lifter.Ya tear up rollers by launching them, from to little spring pressure or the ramps are such that the cam slaps the roller from being streight up at the opening point.Your cam don't have such a ramp.

 

what lifter would you suggest i use for my setup, comp pro magnum 1.6 NSA rockers, GM guideplates, chromemoly pushrods, comp 918 springs, a little over .600 lift, 230/236 duration, titanium retainers, and 10 degree locks

 

If you were my customer and I built the engine it would have factory lifters--GM-- General Motors...or a factory replacement lifter.

 

Those lifters may not be collapsed. Whenever I adjust rockers there's a few lifters that are easy to push. They're not collapsed, they were just compressed when the engine shut off so there's no oil in them. The ones that are "hard" are full of oil. I think for a lifter to be collapsed it would not spring back up. Am I right?

 

when they were new i couldnt collapse them, they are not supposed to bleed like that

 

Did you break the retainer clips for the hyd plunger? That's what's happening to these things lately. That's just one part of them being junk, or actually improperly heat treated. I've seen the Comp R live to some extreme solid roller lifter pressures so I guess it's all relative what we call junk.

Bret

 

I'm one of the ones who recently had a retainer clip come out and thus the hydraulic plunger.

Not a radical setup. 224/230, Comp Rs, stock pushrods, magnum 1.6 rockers and 612 springs.

 

www.schubeckracing.com

No issues for over 10,000 miles, daily driver, many 1/4 passes to 6400 RPM.

 

I used sealed power stock replacements. No problems what so ever. I'd never run the COMP R's considering how many people have had problems with them.

 

will comp give me a refund, or should i just ask them to send me the 850's instead + extra money? OMG i just went and looked at those lifters, the roller x's that have no needle bearings $1000, thats ****ing insane. And $400 for their regular set.

 

But is it a stock motor your running those in, the only reason i bought these was because LE said that i should use them b/c the stock lifters wont take the stress. How do comp's 850 stock replacement stack up to stock GM lifters?

 

I called comp recently about lifters for my 847 and they informed me that the 850's were a stock replacement and that the stock lifters should work fine as long as I stay under 7k. I got a set of sealed power because they are supposed to be the best of the stock replacements.