replacing my damn oil pump drive assembly. The teeth were broken off, replaced it and pressure still dropping at 20psi and even lower.

Started smoking after one WOT run from underneath the car and out one tailpipe...

I think smoke from the car was from them messing with it at the shop from getting oil and stuff over the headers. Not too worried about that.

But now it has to be the pump or something right?

I mean my car serisouly was at like 10-15psi at wot.

 

would a new stocker pump and maybe a pickup tube fix this problem?

 

You should make sure to check the actual pressure to figure out if the sending unit could just be bad and the gauge is reading incorrectly, if the engine is cammed did the company recommend you use a different metal gear?

 

it was a custom cam that was built from the shop. I dont suspect any metal gear?

the gear is already metal. It was prob just old and been through a blown up motor once with a cam and nitrous.


Dont think the gauge could be falty. cause it looks good at reg driving but only when WOT it drops fast.

 

im just going to replace it with a stock pump.

Ive read up i do not need a high pressure spring if the car is going to be a street car and see 7k alot.

So a stocker is fine.

let me know your opinions please.

 

spun bearing maybe?

 

engine is brand new!

doubt it. no knocking or nothing.

car still has great power.. And i would think a spun bearing would cause power loss.

 

What the above guy is talking about...
If your cam is billet, and it doesnt have the cast pressed on gear, you need to run a bronze oil pump gear or else it will chew itself up

 

cam is from comp cams.

i honestly think its the HF pump im my stocker pan and suckign the pan dry..

im going to drop the pan get a stocker pump and white spring and replace it.

The oil pump assembly shaft was probably just old. I had a crane cam in my old motor and that oil pump assembly shaft worked just fine. I took this one out of the old block and put it in new engine. Which it should have been replaced. It probably got weak after i blew my old engine up on nitrous.

 

why would it chew itself up again?

i bought a new one from gm.

 

any other ideas?

 

Oil pressure sending unit.... you need to get an accurate reading from an outside source. Oil pressure sending units fail alot. You're HF would not suck your pan dry and cause a low pressure reading. Just the opposite actually. And the oil would be back in the pan before the oil pressure could drop anyway. Take the advice already given and check the oil pressure. Dont rely on the stock gauge!

 

If the OP is dropping immediatly when ya put your foot to the floor in first,something is wrong with the mains. If it waits for a second to drop the oil is climbing the back of the pan especially if ya got the stock pan with no baffle.If it doesn't start till top of second it could have an issue of sucking the pan oil level down with stock pan.

 

A billet cam is an aftermarket thing. It has less flex than a traditional cam, so many companies use them for performance applications.

The stock GM gear on your driveshaft is meant for a cast iron cam gear (OEM), not an aftermarket billet type. Some aftermarket cams use a pressed on iron gear so they are compatable. If you have a billet gear on the cam, you need to run a bronze drive gear on your oil pump drive

 

yea it doesnt imediatly do it. I go WOT then after it hits second the oil pressure starts to drop and continues until i let off the gas, then it climbs back up.