Cam install...

Tore oil pan gasket...

I need input on what I need to do to fix this.

Thanks

 

Hey, I just did that my self 2 weeks ago installing an electric water pump and opti. All kinds of fun. I had to get a engine hoist and dropped the exaust. After taking the exaust off at the manifold (and breaking a stud) I pulled the motor mounts and picked up the front of the motor about 4-5". After some wrestling I got the pan off and replaced it with a new Felpro gasket. Took about a day once I really got into it. Have fun.

 

Use Black RTV where it tore and get the gasket back into place the best you can. I assume you tore it taking the timing cover off. If that doesnt work, then worry about dropping the pan.

 

Almost forgot, if you do decide to do it right be sure to disconnect the O2 sensor disconnected from the left side before removing the Y-pipe. I forgot the second time I dropped it and ripped the white wire off and need to replce it now.

 

I tore mine during my cam install as well. It was stuck so hard in the timing cover it wouldn't budge, so it ripped.

I just ended up using some well placed black RTV and it's been holding up for a year now

 

Ouch....

 

As long as its not leaking, it's done right... right?

 

Thats what im talking about

 

That would be pseudo-right.

The best thing is to lower the front of the pan, carefully pry the gasket out of the groove in the timing cover and save yourself all the hassle. It ain't that hard.

 

That is exactly the case with mine! It is still connected to the TC cover. I figure if it is stuck that good, why pull it off. I will try the RTV first. If it leaks I will just have to "do it right".

WHen is the best time to swap the valve springs? After everything is back on the front of the motor or before? I am affraid of turning the crank and not sure how to turn it without the front pully. I am thinking as long as I put the two dots on the timing chain sprockets together at the end, it doesn't matter if I move the crank. Give me some insite please. And, Thank You!!!!

 

I changed out my springs after i put the Intake manifold on and after i got the timing cover on. I did my intake manifold first so the rtv had some time to cure. I stacked a some washers and used them as a spacer for the crank bolt.

If you didnt know, be really carfull putting that seal for the water pump drive. Put the timing cover on first, then slip that seal onto a socket that is the same size or just a hair bigger than WP drive and slide it on. This will keep you from having to pull it all back apart again to fix the oil leak.

 

I have an electric water pump so would I still need the seal you are talking about? I think I have a freeze plug where that seal used to be, I believe.

Thanks for your help.

Am I correct on the lining the crank up thing? Shoebox, or somebody???
BTW I am following your install diagram Shoebox.

 

Line the dots up with each other. Cam at 6 oclock and crank at 12. This puts the #6 cylinder at TDC. Then every 90 degrees of crank rotation will send the next cylinder in the firing order to TDC.

Make sure you spin the crank a couple times to be sure the dots are lined up. My first try i was a tooth off. I went two full revolutions of the crank.

If the dots are lined up at the end it doesnt matter how you moved the crank when the timing chain was off. There is no compression or exhaust stroke when the valve train is not operational.

 

Looked at it again. So what you are saying is to put the crank and the Opti/cam seal in the TC cover while it is off but wait till it is on to put the WP drive shaft seal on? Is it eaiser to put on that way??

And what you are saying here is to put the crank bolt in with multiple washers so I can turn it. ...I can turn it with the Timing chain off as long as I line the dots up in the end.

Sorry I just want to make sure I am doing this right.

Thank you for all your help!!!
Jayme

 

Oh and is there any "trick" to psetting up the old oil pan gasket or applying the RTV to get it to seal??

Thanks!