LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Well, I am sure it has been asked before...

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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 09:10 PM
  #1  
1LESSZ28's Avatar
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Well, I am sure it has been asked before...

What is the Max rwhp/rwtq that an lt1 block can handle with stock 2 bolt mains and stock crank? I have heard 550 rwhp....but don't know if this is true or applicable when acheiving this hp number via boost.

I am upgrading to:
1. Forged Pistons
2. Lubrication/Oiling
3. Fuel Delivery
4. ARP Bolts where needed/recommended

Basically, with the supercharger and pulleys the limit of the block/crank is the limit to the amount of boost I will run. Don't want to run more boost than the engine can handle. Street setup will probably never see the track or hard abuse.

Of course the blower will have adequate fueling/dished pistons/ported combustion chambers/grooved heads/intercooler/full tune/bov. Not taking chances with detonation but it is not detonation that I am worried about at this point. Would appreciate if people with high hp (440+) stock bottom end cars would post.
Old Dec 18, 2006 | 10:12 PM
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Also upgrading rods. What would be the cost of the machine work for splayed 4 bolt mains?

Last edited by 1LESSZ28; Dec 18, 2006 at 10:17 PM.
Old Dec 19, 2006 | 08:49 AM
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ARP studs on the mains. Bolts on the rods.
This is what I have, and I pretty much pray and spray. I am touching this mark already on a regular (almost daily) basis and plan to hit 600 soon.

I have had no problems yet, but this is a new motor and a forged crank.

I believe your hardware will let go and screw up some bearings or throw a rod long before you break the factory crank. Could be wrong though.

When I did my whole shortblock I had @ $1k in machine work. From my understanding that would have doubled to go 4 bolt mains.
Old Dec 19, 2006 | 09:09 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by jsetzer
ARP studs on the mains. Bolts on the rods.
This is what I have, and I pretty much pray and spray. I am touching this mark already on a regular (almost daily) basis and plan to hit 600 soon.

I have had no problems yet, but this is a new motor and a forged crank.

I believe your hardware will let go and screw up some bearings or throw a rod long before you break the factory crank. Could be wrong though.

When I did my whole shortblock I had @ $1k in machine work. From my understanding that would have doubled to go 4 bolt mains.
Which forged crank did you go with? Are you still using the stock connecting rods/pistons? What machine work did you have done? thanks
Old Dec 19, 2006 | 09:27 AM
  #5  
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3.5" Eagle forged crank, 5.7" h beam rods, JE -5cc pistons
-Block is .030 over for the pistons.
-0 Decked
-the block needed a little clearing done for the h beams to clear.


Sorry I know this is far from a stock bottom end, but I think we will share similar barriers.
Old Dec 19, 2006 | 09:48 AM
  #6  
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I have a stock crank with 2 bolt mains. But have forged dished -24CC pistons, and h-beam forged rods, and the compression lowered to 9.2:1.

I am running this combo with a Vortech Supercharger currently making a little over 500 horsepower at the wheels. I also shift at around 6400-6500 RPM. Have been running this for over 2 years now with no problems yet....

I have heard many stories like this. The stock crank and mains are pretty darn though. It will take a lot of power as long as everything else is done right and the tuning is on.
Old Dec 19, 2006 | 09:52 AM
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Tuning will be paramount on a boosted motor. Get good hardware no matter what other parts you put in it.

A rod bolt let go trashing my first motor. Everything was factory in the bottom end back then.
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