My bearing on the water pump shaft is tore all to crap... where can I get a replacement, or another bearing to press on? OR what is that thing called lol...

 

You mean the waterpump driveshaft seal?
You can pick one up at the dealership, be careful installing it though they are easy to trash trying to get em in.
I went through 2.

 

I believe you are talking about the waterpump drive shaft. I don't know if you can just get the bearing. I've heard of people just buying new ones and i think they are reasonable $25.

 

If you mean the bearing on the back of the water pump, itself, I don't know of a source for just the bearing. You'll have to buy another pump.

 

im hoping it will be this... i will put up a picture of the peice im talking about in a few min......... update... the pic ----> PIC

GMPD

908101 - Bearing & Shaft Assembly

For V8 350 pump assembly P/N 6258551 or 14011012 (11/2" bearing diameter, 3/4" diameter hub shaft, 5/8" diameter rotor shaft).

 

So, you are talking about the water pump drive that is in the block, not in the water pump... ?

I find it as GM PART # 10219554 for 1993-1997s.

 

does that come with the bearing? I can not really see that good where the bearing should be...

 

yes

 

If you're talking about the ball bearing that supports the water pump drive shaft and is a press fit into the block, that is a common bearing available through any bearing retailer. As I remember, it's a 6201, C3. The C3 just means it has closer tolerances than a C2. C2 is the standard tolerance for radial ball bearings, with C1 being slightly looser and C3 being slightly tighter than standard. The information about what it is will be stamped into the outer race. Pull it off the shaft with a regular two or three jaw gear puller and drive the new one on with a short length of pipe or a socket that bears directly on the inner race only. I'm really surprised that bearing failed; there's virtually no radial or thrust load on it and it sure gets plenty of lubrication.

Chris

 

I was finally able to open the picture you posted earlier (wouldn't open before?) and it looks like you also have some wear on the shaft extension where it passes through the timing cover seal. That can cause a messy oil leak, so you might just be better off buying a whole new assembly. I got one from Dal awhile back, and as I recall it was about $50. Of course, you should replace the seal too.

Chris

 

so, whether i get a new bearing or the whole thing... I still need to put my ED gear on?

 

did not but most people recommend it.

 

As I understand it, the billet ED pieces are harder than the original timing set. If you don't change out the water pump gear it's apt to wear prematurely. You can change it yourself. I used a 2 jaw puller to remove the old gear and my 6" bench vise and a deep socket to press the billet gear back on. Be sure to take some measurements on the original gear before you remove it because there is no mechanical stop on the fit to tell you when you have the new one in the right position. I have to tell you, that baby is on there tight! I put the shaft in the freezer, heated the gear and I still had to use a piece of pipe on the vise handle to press it back on ( and I bent the vise handle ).

Chris

 

Is this a fairly new rebuild or is it stock?Has the block been out to rebuild?

 

everything has been swaped out or machined... at least as far as the engine is concerned.... 100% complete rebuild