Originally Posted by 97WS6SCharged

Unless the materials are noticeably different most people can't tell a sleeved block from a non-sleeved block, especially if the block is dirty.

When I say noticeably different I mean like aluminum blocks with iron cylinder sleeves or liners. Look up a sleeved LS1 block for reference.

Block Sleeving Back to Standard - YouTube

Originally Posted by MachinistOne

That is some ancient 50's technology they're using there.

Originally Posted by 97WS6SCharged

Fairly representative of what you would find in most local machine shops. You don't need a CNC machine to do basic machine work, just a solid foundation and a good set of calipers. Heck, most of those machines will probably still work after another 50 years.

Originally Posted by drptop70ss

Little background on this engine. I bought a 95Z28 from this board back in 2008, engine had been rebuilt with forged pistons, blower cam, etc., and an S trim supercharger. From what I remember the engine was burning coolant, taken to a shop that removed the heads and said the head gaskets were ok. Engine was reassembled and I bought it as is.
Just took it out of storage since 2008 to finally work on it. Couldnt remember the specifics of the problem, engine ran fine but the radiator was dry so I filled it with water to run the car and see what the problem was. Car did not make the white fog I was expecting, ran fine, and then I checked the oil and found a lot of the water was going in the oil. Shut down the car and pulled the engine.
Drained the oil and water mix and started taking the engine apart. I expected the milkshake of oil and water everywhere but did not expect this when I pulled the right side cylinder head.



Head gaskets were fine, looked new, so I assume they were replaced when the heads were originally pulled. Combustion chambers do not look steam cleaned.



Did see this "spot" in the suspect cylinder.



So now I have water in the crank case and in the cylinder as well.

Took the heads to a machine shop to be pressure tested and checked for flatness, all checked out, no cracks and flat to .002" or better. So heads are ok, head gaskets were ok.

No obvious cracks in the block, but next is to get it pressure tested as well. I assume it is cracked, but shouldnt I be able to see a crack large enough to put a gallon of water in the pan in a matter of minutes? Also the engine was not making white smoke and ran fine, so the coolant in the cylinder must have seeped in while the engine was sitting after being pulled.

Anyone ever crack a block like this?