I would recommed you do what I'm in the process of doing myself. Take the heads and cam route. AFR makes an amazing head with incrediable flow numbers. Lots of HP to made with the right head and cam combo. I'd go with:

AFR heads $1750
CC306 Cam $240
Headers $500
Stall $700
PCM Tune $150

Total = $3340

It's a little over 3k total, but it will put you very close to the 11's with slicks. Also, with that setup you can always go to a 383 later and reuse the Cam, heads, etc for even more HP. Then if you still want more do the SC/NoS thing

 

AFR heads still need work out of the box to get good flow out of them...

IMO, here is what I am working on (and I have sort of the same goal you do). I will assume you have the basics done, like CAI and catback, and that you do all the work yourself. If you don't do your own work, pretty much forget any budget you have in mind:

headers - I got some used SLP shorties for $250 on this board, and total price with all the BS (O2 sensors, OVC wires, etc) was $500

cam - I'm going with an XE230-236 on a 112. I picked up a brand new one for $220, but you can find them for less used. I got used 1.6 RR's for $100 and am going with the Cmotorsports spring package for $89. Altogether with everything needed for install my total will come to $774 (with a new LT4 XD timing set). If you were to go with a cmotorsports cam package for $589 (still a good deal), you would be looking at around $950 total.

heads - I'm going with Lloyd Elliot (nighttrain66 on this site) ported heads. Not sure what the price on those is going to be but I assumed somewhere around $750 or so. Add another $50 for related install parts if you install it along with the cam.

gears - 4.11's on mine will run me somewhere around $500 installed (not something I can do myself, nor would I try)

thats $2524 right there with $500 left over for other bolt ons if you want. It will get you pretty damn close to the 11's, and if you can get traction without destroying the rear 11's should be a done deal. Learn to scrounge around and get good deals/used good condition stuff on the cheap if your on a budget. Start saving for a 12 bolt

 

I agree with heads/cam/slicks and bolt-ons you should be close to $3K and run close to 11's but the rear won't last long, maybe 5 or 6 runs so make them count....

I would personally use spray to get where you want to be. Don't juice off the line and your rear may live a while. 100 shot/cam/port stock heads/bolt-ons and suspension should net you 11's also IMO.

Brad

 

Ok, I think it can be done. Here's the plan though, buy used headers, all bolt on parts you should buy used. I got a complete SLP single cat header setup for $335. Homemade intake(if you don't already have CAI) maybe $30??

Now, here's where it gets fun...... CC306 cam kit(not sure how much it costs), and some homeported heads. Do some research on how to port, get access to a die grinder, get some bits and go to work. I did this for my car. I have $420 total in machine work, $250 in the heads(you can get them for cheaper now), $180 in the valves(manley race flo) and figure about $50 for some valve springs. Cleaning and assembly was included in the machine work. I now have a set of heads that flow better than stock, have higher compression and are setup for a high lift cam- all for less than a grand. People have trapped 114 on stock heads with the CC306 before, so I'm thinking with headwork 116-118 would be possible. Say you trap 117, if you can drive and get traction you can get 11's. Concentrate on traction.

Don't forget parts you'll need such as new timing chain, gaskets, seals, fluids, beer to give your buddies to help etc.

John

 

if you had an auto i would say you could do it much easier than the 6-speed. you should be able to get close to the 11 second mark but i dont know how well the rear end would take to the launch you are going to need to give it to make the 11 second pass.

 

Just remember come smog time the the cc306 wont pass.

 

Bingo
His only contribution was teaching ppl how to waste their money and ruin their engine.

A good head/cam package and some suspension work is ur best bet for 11s. Good Luck!

 

it can be done! I have proof

 

Your car is a m6 right? Like everyone has said, the rearend will most likely not hold up running 11's with a m6. And a 12 bolt rearend ($2500) almost sucks your whole budget up. Spray would be the way to go, easier on the rearend and only like $600. Have fun it'll be an adventure and let us know if you make it. Good luck.

Benji

 

I have done it with a almost stock LT1 with 165,000 miles on it. The only mods I had where:
1.6 RR's
52MM Tb
No airbox
No cat and Flowmaster exhaust
MSD 6al box
150 HP nos
centerforce dual friction clutch
short throw shifter
4.10 gears
E.T streets
0 to 60 was 1.68
11.88 1/4 time
117.16 MPh

Be forwarned though, The rear will not last long. I was launching at 3000 rpms and the car was coming out of the hole hard with the NOS on!
Rear lasted 2 weeks after 5 runs at a strip.

 

There you go.....subtract the stall(he has an M6) and add $300 for some ET streets and thats under $3000....of coarse you do all the work and you still need gaskets and fluids.

Lose all the wieght you can off the car and you got a chance if the rear end holds.

 

I know this is getto and I am not an advocate if it, but if you want 11s no matter what, put your car on a serious diet.

Weight Reduction is free.

 

thanx everyone for all the replies, they all helped an awful lot. Does the AFR heads come with all the neccessary gaskets and fasteners. I was thinking about getting that lt4 conversion kit and porting the hell out of the heads and intake and just going with a different cam down the road as soon as i get a new rear end of course. Damn that sux. Is there any way that i could keep that rear and just beef it up any?? I dont really feel like spending 2500 on a new rear in the near future. Oh well the trials and tribulations of hot rodding right. Thanks again for everything.

Thanx
dan

 

I'll have to agree with this. Look at my sig and I have a setup that will get you into the 11's easy. You cen even eliminate the converter to save money (but you will still need to get some 1.6 roller rockers and springs). This will still put you a little over 3K but not much. But, this is assuming you are doing ALL your own work (minus the pcm4less tuning).

 

IMO you would be wasteing money you could use toward a 12 bolt or 9in. Just run some Nittos and it should hold up if you dont do 4000rpm + dumps. .......of coarse 11s will be hard to find going that route.