I just picked up a bone stock all original 1996 Z28 6M with 50 k miles. I want to spend about $2000 in mods to increase 1/4 mile times. What's the best combination of goodies. I would prefer not getting into the engine's internals if possible because I'm scared about that kind of work. Anything else I should be fine with. I'm thinking headers and exhaust is something I could manage, but I've been told I would need to change intake components, otherwise the exhaust would be pointless. I don't want to end up like my friends who spend $3000 on bolt-on mods that are not compatible and make the car slower than stock. I would love to see a list of possible bolt on combinations that people have tried with success. Thanks!

 

You may as well start with the basics. CAI, cat-back, maybe some LT headers would get you going. Also do the TB bypass since it's free. If your going to be running the 1/4 then maybe throw in some gears. I said the same thing you did as far as not wanting to get into engine internals when I first got my Z. Unfortunately, power is addicting and you will want more and more. After a few bolt ons I realized i'm not gonna get the power I want from just bolt ons even though I didn't install the LT's yet. I know i'll still want more even with the LT's so now it's time for a cam swap, real ecu tune, and a 100-150 shot of nos.

 

Lingenfelt CAI, Larger K&N Filter than the K&N cold air intake, better desing, cheaper

Pacesetter Long Tube Headers ( If you dont need to pass emissions )

Off Road Y Pipe ( No Cats, but only if you dont need emissions )

Good Catback Muffler ( IE, Stay away from Flowmaster, Edelbrok, go with Hooker, MagnaFlow, Corsa, Borla, GMMG ... )

Invest in some really good street tires. It makes all the difference in the world.

Pro 5.0 Shifter. It really does feel awesome. Much better feel. One of the best things for a M6 car.

Do the basics too. Plugs, Wires, New O2's ... Do a nice tune up on it. A bigger throttle body is kinda pointless on just a bolt on car.

If you are willing to pull the valve covers off ... Do 1.6 RR's and go with steel ones, Comp Pro Mags are awesome. One piece chromomoly push rods. Guide Plates, GOOD springs, 10* locks and retainers. This will really help with the top end. You will get a noticable gain here ...

On the flip side of things, you could do ( And stay emissiions legit )

Mac Mid Lenght headers,
Cold Air INtake
High FLow cats
Good Catback
NX kit on a small shot. As long as its jetted right, and the engine is in as good a condition as you make it sound, it wont hurt it.

FWIW, I never heard of ANYONE on a stock short block blowing the motor on a 50 shot. 75 either. Some HAVE blown the engines on a 100 shot, but the majority were due to driver errors ( Failure to replace fuel pump with hi flow, etc. Over Revving , Totally abusing ... ) Nitrous is a cheap, very easy, alternative to tearing into a motor. But I wouldnt do it without having at least an intake and exhaust on it first. You want it to breath as easily as possible, and those two things are very choked up in stock form.

Good luck with the car and keep ups posted with what you do to it.

 

Long tube headers with offroad Y pipe and free flowing catback exhaust. Recommend Pacesetter Long Tubes ($500), Pacesetter off road Y ($250), Mufflex 3.5" cat back with spintec muffler ($500) CAI ($200) and finally my personal favorite, a nice set of 4.10 gears for the rear end .

 

Stay away from edelbrock's cat-back? The only reason I got it was cause I was told it flows just as good as the hooker. I was debating between the 2 and everyone told me that the edelbrock flows similar if not the same as the hooker.

 

The following mods woke my car up drastically and should put you right around your desired budget: Moroso CAI, Pacesetter coated long tubes, off-road y-pipe, Magnaflow catback, cutout, and a mail order tune.

 

Ok from reading CAREFULLY your post I know that headers are probably not something you will enjoy doing...

heres a list you can do yourself to help you get started making your ride go faster.

Cat back system such as hooker or magnaflow. (>$500)
cold air intake kit ($200+)
PCM tune (???)
Full tune up such as plugs, wires, fluid changes, new battery, etc. ($100+)

do ALL the confirmed free or almost free mods... such as

CAGS delete
TB coolent bypass
MAF screen delete
intake elbow silencer delete
air intake temp sensor relocation
getting rid of 'hack job' wiring
loose any excess weight (from the car or you)

 

Is there any point in adding longtubes, y pipe, cat back if I don't have any other mods? Should I wait until I have more money and do everything at once? If I did just the exhaust, what would be the most important thing to do next that could improve 1/4 mile ET that costs under $1000??

I want to keep the stock rear end gears (I think)...I just love the long gears. The car will be rolling on it's stock, Z rated tires...no slicks.

 

I've had 2 lt1s. On the first one, I did:

free mods,
muffler
then catback w/offroad pipe
cai
shorty headers
4.10s

My buddy did the same only no headers and 4.10s.

In my second lt1, i did lots of mods at once 'cause a)i had parts and b)have more money now.

BUT, IMO, Do this:

Free mods
headers, catback and cat delete
CAI
and then whatever else you want/can afford from then on.

This time I went with hooker LTs.

But above all, make sure its running/firing 100% first.

 

gears, intake and exhaust should be the first mods IMO

 

Very good advice. Intake exhaust and gears if its a 6 speed or otherwise 2.73 car would be the first things to do.

 

you should buy my k&n and my mint 1le elbow...then get some pacesetter longtubes y pipe and a cutout welded to a stock catback so you can close it and not be botheredd by the cops...get some 3.73...m/t d/r on stock salad shooters...for racing...then get a cc306 with 1.6rr nsa...and a clutch if you still have money....

 

Long tube Headers will be your biggest bang for the buck, gain

 

If you plan on running it at the track buy some nitto DRs. They hook well, but aren't super sticky like the MTs so it will save your rear some.

 

You might want to throw some frame connectors under there also.