i made this vid of my car from crank to kill. its about 3 meg in size....has me cranking the car...idleing...a few revs....dropping into reverse and drive.....any ideas on the backfires?

http://atlstreetdemonz.com/videos/POSBackfires.wmv

 

oh yeah. its backfires at 1000RPM...everytime...never fails....

 

Looks like either you have bad plug wires or wires crossed.
Seems like it missing big time, throttle not responsive.
It's ignition related for sure.

 

i agree sounds like ignition problem, when is the last time you changed the plugs and wires. How about the opti?

 

116,000 miles on original plugs/wires...Is that correct? Did it just start doing this or did you work on something and it developed afterwards?

 

this problem has just started occuring...i drove open header for about 5 days till my exhaust arrived....no hard driving..just round town to work and stuff....got the exhaust welded up, sounded great...drove great...then i put in the o2's...they ended up touching the headers (wires) and melted together...caused major probs....blown engine fuse, car wouldnt run for shiot.....also lost oil pressure...went to a shop, that did about nothing, except got my oil pan fixed and the oil drained...the plugs are new, wires are new on 1/2 the engine....cause 1 burned and 2 were cracking....i did this on tues....after the wires were replaced it seemed to sound a lot better, but the backfires began....they are definitly coming from inside the headers, not out the exhaust....feels like its right under me when i am in the car.....ppl have said Opti, but the opti is only 6 months old and i cant afford to dump $200 on an assumption...any other thoughts?

 

Sounds like you might have toasted another wire or two. Maybe there is just one or more cracked enough that its arching, can you go out and check it now while its dark?

 

I agree. I bet you have a toasted wire, or two. Double check to be sure you have the right wire going to the right plug.

One way to find your problem is to remove one plug wire at a time and see if the problem gets worse or does not change. If it does not change, that is your "dead hole" if it gets worse, that cylinder is ok. You can also use a test light to ground and poke through the top of the boot touching the spark plug and gounding that plug out. Using the same method of better or no change you can find you problem cylinder.

First check your wires. BTW, did you replace the O2's?

 

dang that motor moves like you have a big *** cam in there. Seems like its missing pretty bad...the SES light on?

 

it sounds like there is a big *** cam in it too. No SES light however.

 

i had the same problem turned out to be a bad injector get it hooked up to a tech 2

 

check to see if youve got the O2 wires crossed.

Chris

 

well i can try the TECH II...although im not sure what exactly kind of readings im looking for. There are no o2 sensors in the car, i have removed them. Also last night i pulled wires again, and checked the plugs, ran some seafoam through it too....i found 1 wire that was kinda cracking so i replaced em all, the plugs looked fine....as if they had been a firing away so who knows, MY idle however is low in gear causing my oil pressure to fall below average, kinda scary on that one....im not too sue about anything else to check?