Ok.

my car had some issues with overheating last summer, well i parked it and then a month or so later we fixed it sort of.

we flushed the radiator there is this horrible like mudd stuff in there, still overheats.

well we figured out we could unplugg the temperature control sensor right next too the waterpump and it would run cooler than ever because the fans would both run 24/7.

well that throws an SES light and makes my car not start on the first crank it takes 2 or 3 times too start but at least it wont overheat.

well I got a supercharger and the shop said I need to fix the overheating issue because it could make my pcm pull timing because it not knowing how hot it actually is and retard timing too be safe?

well anyways I bought a new radiator and flushed put new fluid in it, this is the 4th time now and it still sort of has that mudd like stuff buildup around the cap and its nasty like.

I plugged in that sensor the other day too test and see if it would overheat and it did, so I went and changed the 180thermo too 160 and it still does it, I unplug it and boom it has a hard problem even making my heater warm now.


SO I ASK

does ANYONE know what in the world is going on that would make it overheat? I doubt its a blown headgasket because it did this before the supercharger and also it cools just fine with both fans on.

I'm beyond guessing

 

A dull white goupy colour? Could be a head gasket.

Get all your ducks in line before you slap on boost.

You have a new rad, thats a good thing. Now disconnect the heater core and run a bypass to eliminate that issue. Second, make absolutely sure you have the right thermostat for the LT1 in the car.

Second, take out the knock sensor and let the block drain completely. (or the plug on the driver's side).

Make sure to tighten with proper torque when you reinstall the knock sensor, otherwise it will give inaccurate readings.

 

nope its not milky @ all.

and how will bypassing the heatercore do anything? I'm not the best @ this stuff.

and how would taking out my knock sensor and then putting it back in make it not overheat?

 

Removing the knock sensor to drain the coolant in the block.

When you remove your rad you are only draining 2L of an 8L system.

By passing the heater core eliminates it as a variable for overheating. It may be clogged.

 

um...dumb question here...


did you purge the coolant system of air? that makes a HUGE difference in the opperation of the lt1 cooling system.

there are brass bleed screws on the top of the coolant lines in the front of the engine.

and i agree with the "check the stat" if it's not designed for the lt1 (reverse cooled) than it will cause serious problems...and make sure it's in the propper way, not upside-down.

so have you thought that maybe your waterpump is shot?

time for a CSI or mez

 

the waterpump was replaced not too long ago but maybe its bad? would it still stay cool if the waterpump was bad even if the fans are on all the time?


and yes I did bleed the air out of the system until it quit purging it was all fluid coming out no pauses for air.

 

No. If the waterpump wasn't spinning the temp gauge would immediately spike after about 2 minutes of running.

Your fans are coming on properly? At what temperature point on the gauge do your fans come on?

 

well then the waterpump is fine i drive it a few hundred miles every weekend.

and my fans stay on 24/7 when the car is on because when I unplugged the temperature control sensor it throws an ses light but makes the fans come on all the time.

i'm lost @ what to do

 

The 'mudd' signifies that at one time you had std antifreeze (green) and dexcool (orange) in the system and(or) air has entered the system due to a faulty radiator cap or another cause of air trapped in the system . The mix of the green and orange is a debatable cause but everytime I've seen this, the car has seen both types.

Assuming you bleed the system properly and you haven't blown the headgaskets, you need to probably have the radiator and coolant system chemically flushed and pressure tested.

-CAL

 

who does pressure tests and how much are they?

 

The fans are on, because you've set a critical code. Thats what its designed to do. Plug back in the temp sensor and take note of where the fans come on in relation to the gauge in the car.

Second, the previous poster is right. Chemically flushing the system will do wonders.

.... and by pass the heater core to determine if its clogged or sludging.

Get somebody to flush your cooling system and stop getting frustrated. Start there.

 

does the chevy dealer have too flush it or who?

I need to know who too call

 

Call a reliable dealer and ask, HOW they flush the system.

Then call Walmart and ask the same thing.

Report back.

 

just called the dealer they said it sounds like a fan sensor thats making the fans not come one but the only sensor that really shows up is the one that i already replaced???

i'm going insane she's gonna charge me 65$ too tell me she can't do anything after she diagnoses it probably.

and she said a flush wont help if its not overheating with the fans on 24/7

I wonder if a manual fan switch would get me by

 

took it too a shop and they said I need to pop the freeze plugs and get all that junk out of there since the green and red antifreeze was mixed and has too be dug out that way.

???????