I've read and heard alot of people using a hammer or even a mini sledge and a 2X4 as an "install tool" to slip the crank hub onto the crank. For the sake of your crank thrust bearing and your crank snout threads while pulling the hub completely on, please do not do this.
Here's a link for a very effective, very cheap install tool which works extremely well.

http://members.***.net/gmarengo/Misc/Misc.htm

 

thanks I have entered that in my files of how tos

 

I have one just like it I made a couple of years back out of grade 5 threaded stock. As most people know, the standard GM type installers won't work due to the small hole in the LT hub, whereas most dampners have a large hole.

I believe I had to buy a four foot section of the treaded stock and have most of it left if some needs to build one.

WD

 

I have found that boiling the hub helps get it started and on a little ways so you know it is straight. I boiled it rather than just heating it because I knew the water would limit heat to about 212f so I know I would not get it too hot and damage the seal or anything.

I keep the extra long bolt for this and the washers and all in a bag with my 6" long bolts I use as a cam handle. Do yourselves a favor and keep all this stuff together otherwise you endup with 3 of each because you can never find them after you put them somewhere "safe".

 

Once again I've read a few times now of those having problems installing a crank hub or damaging threads on the crank snout due to using the bolt to install the hub. Haven't read of too many using a hammer. That's a good thing.
The link provided is the easiest/cheapest way to remedy the problem.

 

using a bolt thats about an inch longer then stock works just fine for me..

 

If you use the all thread then you will NOT stress the threads in the tip of the crank like you will with a bolt. DO NOT USE THE BOLT or risk dmaging the crank. The all thread, some nuts and washers is all it tkaes to PROPERLY install the hub. Costs less than $3.00.

And a ahmmer and 2x4. Good lawd HELL no.

 

What about lubing the crank and hub and using a dead blow hammer?

 

Hammering is not the recommended way to install the hub. Not saying it has not been done by people, just that it is not the best way to do it.

 

To put the hub back on I always use 3 bolts at different lengths to pull it on using the crank threads. If you seat the bolt deep enought using the threads in the crank works just fine and WILL NOT damage your threads. Once the first length bolt bottoms out then use as slightly smaller one until you get down to your crank hub bolt. Works like a champ and is easy and cheap.

PS: Just make sure you get the exact thread pattern for your crank threads and get some grade 8 (strong thread) bolts from ACE.

 

Any time you use a bolt to pull it on, all the friction is on the threads of the bolt screwing into the crank. That is where the risk is, no matter how long the bolt. With the hub install tool, the friction is on the nut and threaded rod. If that gets damaged, you can just get another one. There is no harm to the crank threads.

You can spend the same amount of money on threaded rod and nuts to do the same job as bolts with no risk to the threads.

 

threaded rod/nuts/washers, seem to be the best route to go.

 

I was lazy and bought the combination puller/installer set for $50. Works fantastic.

 

Arent pullers and installers usualy only around $50 to $100?

 

Yep.

I couldn't find a grade 8 7/16-20 rod, so I just bought the tool.