I am seeing the results of replacing the wimpy LT1 springs with better along with RR's.
How hard is it to replace the springs with the heads still in the car?
What are the basic steps and what special tools are required.
Thanks

 

Not very hard with the proper tool:
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...d=526&pcid=171

 

It's not very hard... it takes around 4-6 hours depending how fast you get the hang of it. I didn't use that expensive tool, I used the screw in compressor... cheaper but harder on your hands (hurts after a while).

Here's a guide:
http://shbox.com/ci/valve_spring_swap.html

 

Pressurize the each cylinder you are working on so you dont drop any valves, change the valve stem seals while you are there. NOTE- hit the top on the valves with a rubber mallet before you try compressing the springs, to get the keeplers out. If you dont break them loose with a hammer , when the spring compresses it will not break the keeplers loose from the valve.

Spring change only
LT1- 2 hours
LS1- 1 hour

Its not that bad, i like the turn style compressor myself

 

Take care replacing the valve seals; you don't want to cut them while sliding them on to the valves. Use a deep socket to tap the new seals in place. Use a magent to remove the keepers; you don't want to drop them into "no man's land".

 

How do you pressureize the cylinder, can you just raise the piston to TDC?

 

That's what I did...

 

Im not sure if you can just raise it to TDC. An LT1 is NOT a zero-clearance motor right? So the valve would still drop some? And if it goes too far for you to be able to reach it, your ****ed.

My cousin said you might still have to pressurize the cylinders?

 

I once saw someone post a diagram that showed the balancer in the eight positions that moved the pistons to TDC. Does anyone have this?

 

if you would read some of the links already posted for you, you'd see that there was a table with the balancer positions and cylinders you can change listed.

 

If the piston is at TDC, the valve will not fall very far. There is no need to pressurize the cylinder, though if you have the air and the fitting you can do so. Just point the balancer arrow up and start at whichever of #1 or #6 is in firing position (both valves closed) and when you've changed that cylinder's springs, rotate the engine 90 degrees and go to the next one in the firing order.

 

Did you look at the link posted to the valve spring swap guide? It was done using the TDC method. It works fine.

...also in the guide...

 

I see it now, very nice by the way

 

Not to hijack your thread but I was wondering what the techy's thought about my 40,000 mile car it is a 93 no problems yet but should I change my valve seals while I am replacing my springs I am using LT4 springs) and I am going with 1.7 Scorpion RR. Has anyone heard anything good or bad about these rockers or know of some valve covers I can get that are either modified or dont need to be modified with these rockers?

 

"Not to hijack"...but you are doing just that. IMO, always change valve seals when the springs are off. Cheap insurance.