First off, Hi I am Jamie and I am new to the world of Camaro's. I just purchased my first Z28, (it was love at first drive). It's a 1994 Z28 and was kept in great shape. I'm starting to make up my list of to do's and I need help from some people that know and understand how to make power out of the LT1. I just purchased a LT4 Intake and a 52mm Throttle Body. (It came with CIA). Next I want to get Headers. Here's the first of my many questions. Should I go to True Duels with two Cats and if so will the extra cat help me breath better and get more horse power. Any sugestions on the type of Headers and Cats would be really helpful. Then of course I will have to go to the other end and Mufflers, Help! LOL. Hey I understand Fords and how to get the power from them. I still own my first 1994 Mustang GT "R" Code Steeda Edition. Sorry to be so long winded but most of you here on Camaroz28.com seem to know about this kinda of thing. Any help would be greatly appreicated. Thanks Jamie55 PS: I hope this all makes sense

 

First the LT4 Intake isnt going to work with your stock LT1 heads, and even if you got it ported to work, its not going to gain you anything. The 52mm throttle body isnt going to gain you much until a larger cam or even heads.

The CAI, Headers and True Duals are a good move though. If you can run zero cats, but if not some cheap Catco's or anything will work fine. The easiest way to run duals are dumped at the axle, but out the back has been done, it just is a little more work.

Get longtube headers if you can. Pacesettter, Kooks, Hooker, Jethot, Dynatech are popular brands. Mufflers to fit under the duals will be slim pickin's due to the lack of room. Many good catbacks wont hold much back from a mild to moderately modded LT1.

Welcome to the world of Camaro's.

-Dustin-

 

Thanks Bersaglieri I appreciate the information. Ok as I said I'm just starting out so I'll go with the Headers and Exhaust first. Then Heads and Cam. I really appreciate your response. Jamie55

 

You can sell the LT4 intake for a pretty penny that will pay for part of your exhaust. Do all your bolt on's, tranny and rear end work, then move to the cam and heads. Here is a list of common proven bolt on's that will yield some gains.

Electric Waterpump
1.6 Roller Rockers [and supporting parts/valvetrain]
Longtube Headers
Catback/Duals
CAI
PCM Tune
Gears [usually 3.73 for A4's]
Torque Converter [2800 or above depending on cam selection]
Suspension and Weight Savings

Spend lots of time on here learning what not to do and what to do. That will save you lots of money and time in the long run. Use the search function like its the air you need to breathe. That is where you will find 90% of your answers.

-Dustin-

 

Thanks again, yeah I know from trying to find the LT4 intake I can get a pretty penny for it. I think I will probally hold on to it tho as I might need it somewhere down the line. Thanks again so far you are the only one to give me a little advice. I just hope what I want to do with this car can be attained. Jamie55

 

I say get rid of the intake manifold on Ebay or here, wherever youll get more power. Sell the 52MM, and put the money you get towards long tubes ( If you dont need to pass emissions ) or Mac Mids, or ASM Mids ( If you NEED to pass emissions. Then fab up a quality Y-Pipe with dual catco cats on it. Or true duals. But true duals will hang pretty low and easy to bottom out. Plus its a nightmare to try and get truel duals out the back in the stock tailpipe location. Some shops have been known to say they cant do it.

Really a good catback wont hold you back much at all. Look at a Hooker, or Magnaflow for cheap, or a Borla or Corsa if you wanna spend some $$$. Borla has a built in "cutout" so it would likely give you best gains as its the least restrictive.

A CAI is a must on these cars.

The stock intake manifold can only take up to a 54MM throttle body without needing bored out. Its cheap to have machined out though if you decide to do a 58. Some people will say you will loose bottom end power with a 58MM, but if I was gonna spend the money I for sure would go with a 58MM.

Another good bang for your buck is definatly 1.6 roller rockers and valvesrpings. If you plan to do no other internal engine mods, then the GMPP roller rockers and LT4 springs, locks, and retainers, are sufficient.

And lastly, as far as bolt ons go, a Electirc Water Pump, is good for another 10 or so horsepower. The only downside, is that they are not as reliable as stock. And inless you have a warning buzzer wired into it ( Another $50 inless you are competent with electronics ) , your car will overheat in a matter of seconds and warp them aluminum heads in no time. Ya gotta be CAREFUL with these.

If your car is a A4, for sure buy a good converter. That really wakes these cars up coming off the line. And if its a 6-speed, chip out the $$$ and buy yourself a shifter.

For some big power gains, these motors are great for N20. Very rarely do you hear of someone blowing up their motors on nitrous unless they did something dumb ( No WOT, window, fuel pressure saftey ( Switches ), or runing on the stock fuel pump, or trying to do a dry kit on the stock fuel injectors). If you use all the safety devices, these motors will take a 100-150 shot no problem. Well, if their in good shape.

Heads and cam give a nice gain, but youll likely not pass emissions ever again if you go with a big cam. Also, you can loose some low end power. And its not that unheard of to spin a bearing with a cammer car. BUT, alot of that could be subject to dirty install, abuse, etc. If your car has low miles, I wouldnt hesitate to cam it.

Dont try to do a turbo/supercharger set up on the stock bottom end. Inless you run really low boost, and all the safety measures, it will be a time bomb ready to pop. The compression is too high ( 10.4:1) and with the raised IAT's, it WILL detonate prior to spark and ruin your pistons/rings.

That said, I am supercharging my stock bottem ended car. I dont really give a **** if I blow it up. And I plan to go with as conservative of a tune as I can, on about 7PSI, intercooled. Ill keep my fingers crossed that she lasts until I have the cash for a 383 low compression stroker. And if it doesnt, its going on credit lol.

O yea one thing I forgot to mention. DO NOT buy a Hypertech or some **** like that. The only computer tune worth doing is a mail-order from PCMforless, or MadZ28.com. Hypertech isnt going to give you any more power. The tuners I mentioned, WILL give you a noticable gain if you send your PCM to them and let them do thier thing.

And if you go with any major mods, heads & cam, N20, blower, etc. Get the BEST tune you can. If you dont, your gonna screw yourself.

 

Wow I typed alot.

O yea, and dont be afriad to use the search function on here. If you can think of it, someone else has already done it.

Do the **** once, and do it right.

Good luck with the car, and do a tune up on it right away. Clean that filter, change the plugs and wires, and suprisingly, its not that uncommon for a used car to have older/slow O2 sensors. Youd be suprised now how many cars/trucks I have bought now used, changed the o2's and got WAY better mileage on them.

 

Thanks to you also hardcore. All the information is really helpful in fact the ole cut and paste to word pad will help this old brain. I'm not trying to build a Quater Mile at a time Car. I want a rocket for the long trips if you know what I mean. I love crusing long runs and as fast as I can get away with it.
Thanks again and if you can think of anything else I'm all ears. Jamie55

 

Well done Hardcore.

I have to say though that my one electric waterpump has outlasted both my stock and stock replacement mechanical waterpumps in miles. So I cant say they are less reliable, but when they break they dont pump any water, where as the mechanicals will allow you to stumble home with at least a bit of coolant flow.

-Dustin-

 

I didn't realize the water pump would gain you that much hp. thanks guys!

 

Dyno gains have been proven to show around 10rwhp/10rwtq. Its due to the fact that the waterpumps on these cars are cam/timing chain driven.

-Dustin-

 

wow did i learn from this post lol thx too guys

 

If you do go the long tube route, you may find it difficult to get a pair of catalytic converters welded into the off-road y-pipe. A pair of Pypes mini-cats will fit in there without a problem.

 

Welcome.