LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Trouble with driver's side motor mount

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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 06:01 PM
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My Red 93Z-28's Avatar
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Trouble with driver's side motor mount

I don't see how to remove it. The stud that goes to the block is blocking the bolt-head so it can't come out, and I can't remove the nut off of the stud because the bolt is in the way. Do you unbolt it from the k-member?
Old Aug 4, 2008 | 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by My Red 93Z-28
I don't see how to remove it. The stud that goes to the block is blocking the bolt-head so it can't come out, and I can't remove the nut off of the stud because the bolt is in the way. Do you unbolt it from the k-member?
Put a bock of wood and bottle jack/jack under the crank pully/balancer and jack the engine up slightly to take the pressure off the mounts. Then you need to pull the mount bolt (single bolt going into the mount) holding it to the kmember and then you can remove the clamshell mount from the block with the three bolts holding it in place. Kinda tight fight but can be done as I replaced both of mine with the engine still in the car. Let me know if you have any more questions or need any advise.
Old Aug 4, 2008 | 10:31 PM
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From: Jackstandican
Originally Posted by DAVE00
Put a bock of wood and bottle jack/jack under the crank pully/balancer and jack the engine up slightly to take the pressure off the mounts.
This is exactly what you don't want to do. In no way is this good for the crank bearings. A better way is a block of wood under the oil pan or bell housing.
Old Aug 4, 2008 | 10:32 PM
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That still isn't going to fix the clearance issue with the stud being in front of the thru-bolt though does it? I can't even get a socket or wrench on it the way it is now.
Old Aug 4, 2008 | 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
This is exactly what you don't want to do. In no way is this good for the crank bearings. A better way is a block of wood under the oil pan or bell housing.
And risk crushing the oilpan no thank you. Many guys have done this on here with no issues including myself.
Old Aug 4, 2008 | 10:38 PM
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Also, main bearings aren't much of an issue because they are going to be replaced while the engine is out.
Old Aug 4, 2008 | 10:47 PM
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From: Jackstandican
Originally Posted by DAVE00
And risk crushing the oilpan no thank you. Many guys have done this on here with no issues including myself.
Hrm.. risk crushing an oil pan or risk damaging bearings... That's a toughie...
You would not crush your oil pan if you did it properly like using a 2X4 that runs over the length of the bottom of the oil pan. Gearheads with their SBC's have been using this method for decades.
Originally Posted by My Red 93Z-28
That still isn't going to fix the clearance issue with the stud being in front of the thru-bolt though does it? I can't even get a socket or wrench on it the way it is now.
You may have to take the bolts out of the k-member first which would require you taking the load off the mount. It reads like the mount had been taken off and the stud put in backwards. I know exactly what you're talking about. I did it once while trying to put an engine in my car and had to take the header off (engine was still out of car) before I could reach it.
Old Aug 4, 2008 | 10:50 PM
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Not to argue with your logic, but just because you say it's the right way doesn't mean it actually is. As I said before many guys on here an other threads have done both methods without issues, therefore both ways are suitable for fixing/replacing motor mounts.

Originally Posted by SS RRR
Hrm.. risk crushing an oil pan or risk damaging bearings... That's a toughie...
You would not crush your oil pan if you did it properly like using a 2X4 that runs over the length of the bottom of the oil pan. Gearheads with their SBC's have been using this method for decades.

You may have to take the bolts out of the k-member first which would require you taking the load off the mount. It reads like the mount had been taken off and the stud put in backwards. I know exactly what you're talking about. I did it once while trying to put an engine in my car and had to take the header off (engine was still out of car) before I could reach it.
Old Aug 4, 2008 | 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by DAVE00
Not to argue with your logic, but just because you say it's the right way doesn't mean it actually is. As I said before many guys on here an other threads have done both methods without issues, therefore both ways are suitable for fixing/replacing motor mounts.
I disagree, but it's your engine and your risk.
Old Aug 4, 2008 | 11:55 PM
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Frankly you have to support the engine with the crank to get the oil pan out, so I gotta agree with dave on that side-arguement. Ive done it many times on mine.
Old Aug 5, 2008 | 12:12 AM
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From: Jackstandican
Originally Posted by JoeliusZ28
Frankly you have to support the engine with the crank to get the oil pan out, so I gotta agree with dave on that side-arguement. Ive done it many times on mine.
I'm sure many have, but it's still not a good idea. I'm merely offering an alternative. Talk to any credible engine builder and they'll tell you the same. You don't have to support much of the engine weight by the crank snout. You can use an engine hoist.
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