Ok, I had to pull my oil dipstick tube last night to remove my exhaust manifold. It was a pain in the *** w/ the limited room and movement. There is about 5" of tube extending past the seat/bead that locates the tube. Anyone trim off an extra 2-3" from the oilpan side of the tube? it sure would make install/removal much easier. I can't think of a reason not to. Any issues inside the oil pan that would prevent this from being a good idea?

 

I did the exact same thing. I had to becuse of where my headders were. I think I left 1.5 - 2 inches or so. No problems so far.

 

This topic is kind of a can of worms.

There are many people who have trimmed their dipstick tubes during header installs. I can't give you a specific name, but it has been reported that you can break off the tip of the dipstick. Doesn't seem like a common problem though.

My opinion is, why not just do it right. Put some oil on it and work it back in, your guarenteed not to run into trouble that way. You can lightly sand some of the paint off of the end with fine grit paper if its giving you a lot of trouble.

Try a search, its been discussed MANY times.

good luck,
Brent

 

thats exactly what I did...lubed up the tip and then I slid it down in between the side fender wall and header. It appeared that it wasn't bent enough so I bent it more and then wiggled it in. You kinda have to see how it goes in at first and then try to find a way for it to angle around the header but still have an angle to fit the tip into the hole. Direct it in the hole first and then see where you have to bend it...thats what I did..worked alot better than just trying to shove it in...it took me a lil bit but was way easier when I stopped to look and see what the problem is...

hope this helps....

 

my stock dipstick was a pain in the *** to get back in with LT's, i ended up bending it so gawd awfully there was noway to use it again, so i dropped the $50 on a Lokar dipstick that i never even use it looks so pretty tho, shiniest thing in the engine bay

 

is there any way to re-locate it (i mean have is be a soft tube like braided line so that is not a pia to get the plugs with headers )

 

I've removed it before and dressed up the end but still had issues even w/ lubrication. I believe this time I'll trim off no more than 2" and try that w/ lube.
Have you tried the search function lately? its not working correctly

 

trust me on this...get a shop light and shine it from above & get another shop light and shine it from below. Get under the car and look how the dipstick mount snags on the plugs and block. Now see how the tube bends and gets stuck on the header. If you can focus on directing the tube into that hole...let it rest on the hole. Now look at the bend in the tube and see how it is hitting the header. Now bend the area of the tube that hits the header, bend it back. Dont wedge it in their so it gets stuck on the header but use two hands and guide it straight into the hole...it takes some effort and no its not easy but try guiding it while your under the car so you can make sure it's going in straight and not crooked or diagnol.......thats why it wont go in...... Also, try guiding it from the top once its in...might wanna go back and forth from top of the car to the bottom of the car of pushing it in. Thats what I did. Very important..make sure that dipstick goes all the way in and mounts. My buddy couldnt get his in so he left it unbolted and it still had a lil bit to be pushed in. Well, the dipstick wasnt any good cuz he couldnt get accurate dipstick oil readings.

 

Had the same issue when i did my headers just sand the paint off the tube and i slides right in... well almost

 

What worked for me was lightly sanding the paint off the tube just enought to get it back in. Then you must make sure the tube is NOT BENT. If its bent, its not goin in easy. I made sure the tube was straight and now it pops back into the block without any hassle and everything is completely fine. I also dropped $50 on a Lokar dipstick that is laying around in my box of soon to be installed parts. I'll eventually put it in.

 

that damb dipstick took up hours of my time.

I tried all the ussual methods but nothing worked.

Bending it was a big no no for me.

finnally i cut of about 1.5 inches and it still wasn't enough to get the bolt in. 1 week later i hear a rattling sound then snap, i lost 2 inches of dipstick.

So i went out and bought a new tube and stick and it slid right in with no struggle.

 

rob's first hand experience makes me think trimming is a no no. I've taken it out before and gotten it back in but was a pain. I guess I'll try sanding all the paint off then ensure it's straight and true below the mount.

 

I trimmed mine down.
No problems. I did get it all the way back in and bolted up so maybe that makes a difference.

 

I had to trim mine down. When I got my motor back in after the rebuild with splayed 4-bolt caps, the dipstick tube wouldn't go in b/c it was making contact with a main cap. I cut mine off and have had no problems. If you'll notice, on older SBCs, the dipsticks only go down into the block an inch or less.

 

Trimming is a no no.. while it works for some it hasn't for others..
Just do it right the first time, it's not that hard.

Sand that sucker good.. not lightly.. good and hard.. sand all the paint off at a minimum. If you have a dremel this may be a good job for it. Clean all the metal particles off and clean the block good where the dipstick enters.. lube that sucker up good too. I have a freezer in the garage and even froze the thing (every bit helps).. then a pal and I went to work and got it in in 5 or 10 minutes. One person should pull and direct from the bottom while another pushes and wiggles from the top and bends as necessary (use primary tubes as corner to bend against).

I'll tell ya though the hard part was getting the little bracket on the tube to line back up with the bolt hole on the block after all that bending of the tube.