LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

tranny work and clutch install

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Old Mar 18, 2003 | 06:48 AM
  #1  
limige's Avatar
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From: sebewaing, mi
tranny work and clutch install

ok, i've got a 94z m6

my tranny has had problems getting into and staying into reverse.

so i've bought a ripper shifter and ordered a centerforce dual friction.

what else should i or might i need to replace?

i'm worried i may have bent a fork inside the trans. any hints, tips or ideas?

do i need to upgrade the slave, clutch fork or anything while i'm in there?

how hard is it to replace syncros and seals? is it worth it to do it now? where to buy from and how much am i looking at?

i want to get the car on the road asap, this warm weather is killing me.

my clutch will be in wed and my axles on thurs. i'd really like to have it on the road this weekend, i may pull the trans tonight.
Old Mar 18, 2003 | 10:08 AM
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From: Toledo, OH
If its only reverse dont worry about it, they are all hard to get into reverse. I have to let off the clutch a litttle bit sometimes and push it in, then I always hold it there just to be sure it wont pop out. Never done it but I dont think id ever want to go inside of an M6 and replace stuff. Replace the pilot bearing if the clutch didnt come with one, cant upgrade the slave unless you buy a mcleod but thats pointless, check the fork that engages and disengages the pressureplate, check for leaks around the rear main seal, and based on a bunch of other posts get a different clutch. Do a search on centerforce and you wont find too many good things about it, just a suggestion.
Old Mar 18, 2003 | 10:36 AM
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From: Houston, TX
Cool

I would use a stock replacement before a centerforce... Do a search on centerforce clutches .

Ryan
Old Mar 18, 2003 | 10:51 AM
  #4  
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From: Brunswick, Maine 04011
You bought a Centerforce? I went through seven different installs and finally switched to an automatic. My advice is to send it back, unopened, and get anything other than a Centerforce. If your car is stock or reasonably close to it just get an OEM replacement clutch.
Old Mar 18, 2003 | 03:00 PM
  #5  
limige's Avatar
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damn, ok i'll see if i can get my deposit back i guess....

what would you suggest?

car currently has 3" exhaust single outlet
k&n filter

i'm currently installing a 8.5" 4:10 rear w/moser axles, bolt in style

b&m ripper

and clutch, hope to fix trans problem, opening the m6 does't scare me.....

next i was thinking of buying that cam kit from cmotorsports, the nitrous/supercharger grind xtreme engergy cam

plan to fab some frame stuff, connectors, panhard, trailing arms, strut tower brace ect.

and when i get the cash, forged pistons and a supercharger with about 12#'s or so.

goal is around 500 hp.

what clutch should i buy???????
i expect it to be at least a year or two before i have the supercharger so i really don't want too heavy of a clutch
Old Mar 18, 2003 | 08:33 PM
  #6  
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With those mods just get a stock disk and maybe an slp or lt4 pressure plate for now. Then in a year or so when you get the blower get a street twin or ceramic spec, by then if you race the car this year the other clutch will be done anyway.
Old Mar 18, 2003 | 11:45 PM
  #7  
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From: Watertown, Mass
Well what do you mean by hard to get in? does it grind at all? when in gear it pops out you say. its not the forks since only the 3/4 forks can bend due to them being aluminum. all the other ones are steel. that proberly means the reverse syncro is going. replacing that is easy. just open up the tail then remove the reverse gear syncro assembly and simply flip over the current syncro over and reinstall. the reverse syncro can be flip over and reused but only the reverse syncro.
Old Mar 19, 2003 | 07:14 AM
  #8  
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wow, sounds sweet!!! i'll try that, trans comes out tonight, just bellhousing bolts holding her now!!

i mean, it kinda feels like it shifted but you let the clutch out and it pops back to nuetral while making grinding sounds. you have to push and hold it, let the clutch out slowly to test if it's truly engaged, something is definitely messed up, i was pretty sure syncros were a given.


it's totally my fault, i thought there was a lockout mechanism for reverse once you got moving....one night me and my friend were hitting the backroads hammering through gears while the stereo was cranked......well it didn't want to go into 5th at about 90mph or so, kept trying 2 or 3 times until i realized i was trying to go into reverse!!!!!! damn i'm stupid sometimes!! lol, anyway, that's what did it in, now i have to pay for it, just wondering what i may need to order and where to buy the parts.. these crackheads in town want $400 for a syncro and seal kit they're insane!!


btw: i voted on suggestion above, canceled the centerforce and bought a stocker from autozone, lifetime warrenty, so it looks like once or twice a year i'll be putting a fresh clutch in!!

when i buy the supercharger i'll spring for the twin, or when i get sick of changing stockers!

instead i ordered the nitrous/supercharger extreme energy cam from seth at cmotorsports

seth is awesome btw.
Old Mar 19, 2003 | 10:32 AM
  #9  
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man 4 of the flywheel bolts refuse to come out, i may have to cut them off, i've just about rounded all the corners off them

and dang i'm having a heck of a time removing c clips to get to the synco, what a pita.

everything i can see looks good, of course the front half of the syncro is covered up so i can't see that.

i need to find a better way to get the c clips off, my snap ring pliers aren't doing the job too well and screwdrivers aren't working all that well. i honestly thought i'd see some gears or bearings bad.

Last edited by limige; Mar 19, 2003 at 11:32 AM.
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