Im contemplating spending $300 to get my head gasket replaced. i believe id do a better job cuz id take my time. plus that $300 doesn't include parts. so can someone help me out and tell me all the tools ill need so i can choose. thanks in advance.

 

A full complete set of hand tools is all you really need, along with a GOOD torque wrench . The only specialty tool you might want to pick up is a fuel line disconnect tool (5/16" and 3/8. But even then it isn't completely necessary if you just lay the fuel lines up and out of the way.

 

You ever read that old joke about the woman taking her car in for an oil change vs the man figuring he can do it him self, and ends up costing a ton of money?..


That's how it goes.

But that's not to scare you away from doing it your self. It's actually not that hard at all. I'd say the scariest part your first time doing heads (atleast for me when I was 16 it was..) Was torquing the new headbolts in. Start by reading up on every head swap threads you can find. I believe LS1howtwo has a head swap on there, not totally sure about that off the top of my head. Just read, read read so you have an idea what's going to happen. Then take your time when you've started the job.

 

It really is pretty easy. Hand tools and a torque wrench will take care of it. The previous poster is spot on. Read so you know what you have to do and have at it. There are numerous how to's on this site and others.

 

Thanks guys..yea i have a torque wrench and all the basic tools, the gas line remover and the hanes book to torque it all down right. i was just makin sure there wasnt anything crazy i had to deal with. and i was thinkin what else should i do while im in there? adjust the valves? change the valve stem seals? and if so what other than a wrench do i need to do so

 

Id definately buy the fuel disconnects to take off the two fuel lines so they are not in the way. Next you will need intake manifold gaskets for the intake and some rtv silicone sealant to seal the front and rear of the intake. Truthfully its harder to me to properly seal the intake and have no leaks than the head gasket you might want a partner when reinstalling it. Also make sure that you give the intake silicone plenty of time to dry. About the rockers, pushrods, and lifters you can easily take these off an inspect for pits and burn spots. If they look good then they probably are. Truth is if your staying stock id leave well enough alone if they were working before then they should be just fine. You only have to adjust valve train when your changing the geometry like going to roller rockers and having to get shorter pushrods etc. Also when installing the bolts on the heads i cant remeber if there is a 3 step tightening sequence. Im sure there is even though there are some bolts you can buy new and they say you can torque then down just once and forget about them if still check the torque of each head bolt after i drove the car a few miles. Good luck man i hope i answered your questions

 

Since you're taking off the heads, you're going to have to set your valve lash anyway.

Always, always torque the heads down in 3 step increments (if you don't use TTY bolts).

 

Take that $300 and buy some headers with it. Since you will be contorting your hands in all sorts of weird shapes getting those stock exhaust manifolds off anyway might as well do a little upgrade.

Plan a weekend your first time doing it- have a buddy with you too since two pair of eyes and brains helps you figure out how to get at some of the bolts.

Don't worry though- I did the same thing many many moons ago with the haines manual showing me step by step. Now the motor comes out in under two hours.

 

change the plugs when youre in there too (and don't buy the $6/$7 platinum ones... ngk's tr-55 will be fine and theyre ~$2. If you're getting them from autozone, look up the part number because they couldn't find them when I told them tr55) Good luck man you'll find it isn't too hard... just take your time!

 

There's a coolant pipe that runs between the heads at the back of the motor. Many people remove both heads together because of this and of course it takes two people to do that. I guess removal of this pipe is a real bear. You might want to check this out before you proceed alone.

I have only removed the heads on my LS1 motor and could be wrong about the LT1.

 

Thanks guys...yea i started on it today and got all the way down to pullin off the valve covers. ive taken off the intake manifold throttle body ect... but i stopped when i got to taken off the air pump system that goes to the exhaust manifold. its def on there pretty good but thanks a lot every everybody everyone i talkd to before this website was acting like this was soooo hard and miserable.

 

I like your way of thinking! Most headers will also make future spark plug changes easier, as well.

To the OP: Just take your time, and be methodical. Careful on that coolant crossover tube behind the heads, it's a PITA due to the location.