Too many miles to mod?
Too many miles to mod?
My 97 Z just hit 90,000 miles. I want a cam/heads mainly. My Dad keeps arguing now that it has too many miles to do engine work on it, and that I should just keep doing bolt-ons. Is 90,000 too many miles to install a cam and set of heads? Or should I just wait and let the miles get up a good bit and when I rebuild the engine, make it a 383?
With the low compression seal pressures of the piston rings in the LT1's, the roller cam and roller lifters, these engines are good for 300k miles or more, the only weak spot is the mains/rod bearings, which can be easily changed without pulling the motor, and the valves may need to be reworked..but you're wanting to change heads anyway.
yea, 90k miles used to be a lot of miles on a GM motor, pre-LT1's, not anymore.
yea, 90k miles used to be a lot of miles on a GM motor, pre-LT1's, not anymore.
Originally posted by 2QUIK6
With the low compression seal pressures of the piston rings in the LT1's, the roller cam and roller lifters, these engines are good for 300k miles or more, the only weak spot is the mains/rod bearings, which can be easily changed without pulling the motor, and the valves may need to be reworked..but you're wanting to change heads anyway.
yea, 90k miles used to be a lot of miles on a GM motor, pre-LT1's, not anymore.
With the low compression seal pressures of the piston rings in the LT1's, the roller cam and roller lifters, these engines are good for 300k miles or more, the only weak spot is the mains/rod bearings, which can be easily changed without pulling the motor, and the valves may need to be reworked..but you're wanting to change heads anyway.
yea, 90k miles used to be a lot of miles on a GM motor, pre-LT1's, not anymore.
, im jealous.
Re: mods
Originally posted by firstgener
i did a heads/cam job on my z at 120000 miles and it runs great. I highly doubt that anything short of a forced induction vehicle would have problems. My .02!
Austin
i did a heads/cam job on my z at 120000 miles and it runs great. I highly doubt that anything short of a forced induction vehicle would have problems. My .02!
Austin
Originally posted by jasons93z
On a side note. 2QUIK6, i wish i had all of your cars
, im jealous.
On a side note. 2QUIK6, i wish i had all of your cars
, im jealous.
Got the TTA off of ebay, couldn't pass up the deal. Then had to add hp to my truck which went from TBI, to TPI, to LT4 now. oh, and I have no kids..otherwise I would have no cars
We (me and a friend) put a blower on my car when it had 95K miles on it. It was only a 4.5 blower. At 120K, we pulled the motor out to install a 383 with lower compression for more boost. We did not pull the old motor because it was toast but because I wanted more power and found a GREAT deal on my 383 motor. You can click on the sig for more details on my set up.
I took excellent care of the old motor when I had it in my car, Oil changes before every 3000 miles and never missed one. As a matter of fact, we were both shocked to see how great a shape my old motor was in when we pulled it out of my car. My point is, if you have the funds and the know how AND you took good care of your motor then GO FOR IT!!
Thx,
Claude
I took excellent care of the old motor when I had it in my car, Oil changes before every 3000 miles and never missed one. As a matter of fact, we were both shocked to see how great a shape my old motor was in when we pulled it out of my car. My point is, if you have the funds and the know how AND you took good care of your motor then GO FOR IT!!
Thx,
Claude
Originally posted by 2QUIK6
the only weak spot is the mains/rod bearings, which can be easily changed without pulling the motor
the only weak spot is the mains/rod bearings, which can be easily changed without pulling the motor
Is it really true, that main bearings can be changed without pulling the engine ?
I say put the badest a$$ heads you want on there, and the biggest cam you want in there. The secret is not to over-rev it. The bearings are the weak spot. I just did a cam install at 122,00 and I'm at 128,xxx now. Still running strong. Bet your dad that the cylinder walls will look like u have 30,000 miles instead of 90,000. If it was maintained, they should look perfect, mine did.
Benji
Benji
Originally posted by Est96Z28
Is it really true, that main bearings can be changed without pulling the engine ?
Is it really true, that main bearings can be changed without pulling the engine ?
On another note, my LT4 had 66k on it when I bought it, the cylinder walls still had the factory cross hatch scratches on it, no wear what so ever.
It all depends on who is paying the bills.
If dad will foot the tab for heads and cam, etc. then letting him be a big part of the process will work in your favor.
If YOU are going to pay the bills, then whatever you do, if things go south, will be your decision and your responsibility.
Usually though, anyone who pays their own way, acts a bit more conservatively when it comes to throwing $$ into machines.
Not all Lt1s are equal. Slapping heads on a tired engine, whether 50K or 150K can ruin your day.JMHO
If dad will foot the tab for heads and cam, etc. then letting him be a big part of the process will work in your favor.
If YOU are going to pay the bills, then whatever you do, if things go south, will be your decision and your responsibility.
Usually though, anyone who pays their own way, acts a bit more conservatively when it comes to throwing $$ into machines.
Not all Lt1s are equal. Slapping heads on a tired engine, whether 50K or 150K can ruin your day.JMHO


