lt1g3n

ok, well all my parts are here , and i want to do all of it , or most of it tomarrow, i got my cam , heads, head gaskets, headers, springs, and opti . I'm gunna wake up early and get to work, im pretty sure i got everything down pat, ive read alot of posts, and sites on how to do cam install and such, but i guess im going to need some sort of degreeing thing when i install the cam?

So pretty much before i go do all this, if theres any oddball pointers or whatever let me know now, ill check post in mornin before i go out and do it all ;p. headers/ opti seem pretty easy =p .. just dont wanna mess up on the cam install and head install.. what kind of sealant do i use for the head gaskets?

Thanks!


ps. im thinking of changing the springs after the heads are on... this ok ? as i do not have a spring compressor yet =p.. or should i wait ?

thnx again

CoUnTryMuZiCZ28

If i were you man, i would take the heads somewhere to have the springs put on.. Much easier, i think they charge about 75 bucks to assemble them.. Check out my post on the intake leak.. if you need some pics of myhead/cam install let me know.. I also made a post exactly like this about 2 weeks ago.. lol

EDIT:: on felpro head gaskets, they dont need any sealant, If you want though, put some black RTV and smear it around VERY thin, and assemble it asap! Follow the torque sequence, then when your done, wait 5 min, then go back over the torquing sequence ONE BY ONE and loosen and then tighten the head bolts to the full LBS in one shot, in the beginning of the assembly you should have torqued the heads little by little leading up to the FT lbs, i think its 75 FT LBS, i dont have the book infront of me but that sounds about right.. But go one by one like, loosen the first one tighten it to 75! loosen the second one, tighten it to 75! ETC.. This will seat the gasket in the head.. Felpro head gaskets will not have to be retourqued, especially if you use this method.. Hope this helps.. Also a good time to paint your manifold.. I sprayed mine black.. If you need any help, i always have a computer next to me and you can email me.. CyberSnyper00@aol.com ... GOOD LUCK!

EDIT2: on the head bolts that go through the coolant chambers, youll want to put some TEFLON sealant (like pipe sealant, Loctite makes some).. DO NOT USE THREAD LOCKER! USE A TEFLON BASED SEALANT MADE FOR KEEPING WATER OUT OF PIPES OR SIMILAR.. lol.. cant stress that enough, you dont want a head gasket problem..


EDIT3: Make sure all your threads are clean, run a thread chaser on the bolts and run a tap (very lightly) through the heads and block, before you assemble them.. This will get all the junk out and give you accurate torque readings! Plus you wouldnt want to put the heads on and the bolts not thread properly and you have to pull them off.. yea for an extra 20 minutes its well worth it, your not spending all this money for nothing..

EDIT4: also be sure you clean the mating surfaces with a T-Shirt or somehting like that, do not use paper towels.. they leave fuzzy crap where you wiped.. Use brake cleaner and if you really want to be sure use so rubbing alcohol.. Im trying to help ya the best i can..

lt1g3n

awesome, im gunna head out there pretty soon now, lets see... how is it that you get torque readings :P sorry im a bit o- noob- ie

=p .. but i work on my car alot, this is just the first time doing heads and cam :P


Ok i got felpro's so i wont add any sealer, as i do not have any any way :P

my real concern now is how to degree the cam.. and what i need to do that..

Thanks again!

ibanez6rg

You don't need to degree the cam.

lt1g3n

sweet ;o

ibanez6rg

Also calls for 65ft. lbs on the heads. Using 3 stages of torque. I did mine 25, 45, 65.

SVT Killer LV

are you INSANE.. do it off the car, why ride a bike for a 50 mile trip when you can drive

lt1g3n

ehehe ok , will do, ill go get myself a spring compressor , and do the work some other day

ssbowtie1

Sorry not to be pessimistic or anything, but if you've never done this before, there's no way in hell you're going to do headers, opti, heads, cam, and springs all in one day. If you do, then you belong on a top fuel dragster crew.

Take you're time and mark everything, and don't try to rush things, because then it ends up taking twice as long to do it right the second time. Good luck.

RedTransAm21

I would definitely suggest going to autozone or somewhere like that and renting a valvespring tool, then doing the springs with the heads off the car. If you wait till the heads are on you will be in for a fight with the springs. you would have to get the valves held up either with an air hose fitting in the spark plug hole or by moving each cylinder to TDC, then you will have to deal with the springs under the cowl...not fun

lt1g3n

ok cool, i can do this , thanks guys im heading to auto zone to rent a spring compressor ,and ill take my time

CoUnTryMuZiCZ28

I think we are all missing something, we cant possibly cover all there is to do with a cam install.. I say you try to find some cam install pages. Shbox.com has one, thats shoebox, he covers everything.. Before you take everything apart, take the #1 spark plug out (first one on the driver's side), rotate the crank with a 5/8 socket with an extention clock wise, the arrow on the crank you want at 12, but you want the compression stroke (this will make it easier when it all goes back together), rotate the crank untill you feel air puff out of the hole (you have to rotate the crank and have someone holding there hand over the hole) when the air blows out and the arrow is at 12 you are at #1 Top Dead center.. When the #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke the #6 cylinder is on the top aswell but not the compression stroke, so when you put the cam in, you put the timing marks facing eachother (its easier to line them up that way, if you feel confident you can put them both at 12, easier the other way IMO) so the cam gear will be at 6 oclock and the crank gear will be at 12 oclock.. this will put your cam in correct timing, the cam will not rotate, there is a special hole for the dowel pin to go in. if you do it right the cam dowel shoule be at about 3 oclock and the timing marks facing eachother (Remember if you put the timing marks facing eachother, you are no longer at #1 TDC you are at #6 TDC).. This is will give you the correct position for finding Zero lash on the rocker arms when your putting it all back together.. I suggest you have someone who has done this before help you.. its sort of easy, its just time consuming and you need to take your time.. Check out shoebox's web site, the link to the cam uninstall/install page: http://shbox.com/ci/cam_removal.html http://shbox.com/ci/cam_install.html .. You should be set.. make sure you clean all your bolts and get yourself some loctite (red).. You said you dont have any sealant... sealant is not what you need.. if its RTV your referring to you will need that.. Also to take off/put on the timing cover you need to drop the front of the oil pan or you will rip the seal and have to pull the pan out completly which is not fun at all.. since your doing all this work dont shortcut yourself and skip it, just take the extra 10 minutes to loosen the oil pan.. It doesnt soudn like your ready for this cam install.. I would wait till you have all the supplies.. RTV (permatex ultra black), Loctite, Ultra copper RTV (for exhaust to ensure its leak free), you will also need a torque wrench, haynes manual or chiltons, some teflon sealant for the bolts so they dont leak coolant, and youll need about 10 quarts of oil and 2 filters.. after your cam install run the car for about 30 minutes with revvs only to about 2500 RPM (do not start the car for 24 hours after the cam install or you will be doing an intake manifold leak soon enough, you want to wait till the RTV "cures"... After the 30 minutes of running the car drain the oil and take out the filter and change it, also invest in a magnetic drain plug for about 2 bucks, this will give your bottom end and crank bearings an insurance policy.. If your using new lifters youll need to soak them in mineral spirits or barasol to remove the coating thats on the to keep them from rusting, do that over night, then clean them off (wipe, no water!) and then soak them in oil.. also for the first oil change i wouldnt use synthetic, use a regular brand motor oil, use the oil in the car for the first initial start up and then drain it, you dont want low viscosity oil breaking in your new parts! lol, just to make sure it all works and starts youll be using this oil, god forbid you have to take it back apart you dont need more expense of another 4 or 5 quarts of oil, once you know everything works A OK, drain the old oil and put the new oil in, run for the 30 minute length and then drain it quickly so nothing settles in the pan.. do not drive the car for that 30 minute length unless you plan on not revving past 2500, you dont want metal parts flying through there.. again dont shortcut yourself, just take your time and this motor and your new power will last a long time.. I hope i helped you out because my fingers hurt! lol.. GOOD LUCK!

ibanez6rg

Just messin' man!

shoebox

Did that mean good luck reading that?

CoUnTryMuZiCZ28