I currently have a 1996 camaro z28, im tired of getting beat by these 11sec mustangs and camaros. My camaro is basically stock besides the bolt-ons i have a lot of money to play with, I was thinking since i have a l92 in my garage of building that and supercharging it? or just straight motor. Would it even fit in a f-body?...if so i have the l92 sitting in my garage. What are your guys opinions i want to at least run 11s and i got a l92 to spare. Give me some ideas!

 

This should be moved to he LT1 sec.

Is the car a m6 or auto?

LE heads and cam , long tubes , small shot of nitrous (100 shot) and a good clutch or stall converter.

 

Just fi and be done with it. I had a buddy with a h\c full bolt-on lt1 and he would get spanked by my bolt-on ls1. It made no sense, but he had tons of tuning issues. I'm pretty sure you can get a blower for those cars fairly cheap nowadays.

 

LS Swap and your in the game! With the right converter, gears,and cam mid 11's would be easily attainable.

 

How does it not make sense. The LS1 was a technological evolution (possibly leap) beyond the SBC:

Vastly superior heads
Superior Intake
1.7 rocker arms
decreased pushrod angle
larger base circle cam, mounted higher
deep skirt block
improved cooling between middle cumbustion chamber
lighter engine
improved ignition
revised firing order - which unless memory has failed, decreases parasitic losses on the crankshaft


I am sure I am missing somethings.

 

You can see what I ran in my sig. I figured with Heads and a Cam a he would have been at least dipping into the 12's. I don't know though, I never owned an LT1.

 

Moving

 

Spray would be the most cost-effective solution.

Or just buy my car. It's for sale.

 

The money spent putting an LS where a LT1 now resides could do a lot with the LT1.

My heads/cam Caprice runs 11s, a GOOD heads cam f-body should run in the 11s easily and a lot do it with mediocre heads.

I have beaten sprayed LS1 f-bodies at the track. A well setup LT1 is better than a halfassed LS.

 

Stroke your lt1 to a forged 383 12.1 compression with AI heads and cam, supension work and some other supporting mods along with efi connections 24x ignition and dyno tune you should have enough power for 10s; depending on how big you go on the heads cam and intake. I would just buy RamAir95s car

 

Nobody's mentioned tires yet. Sticky ones won't get a bolt-on LT1 into the 11s, but they may get a 13-sec car into the 12s.

 

The reason it made no sense is that the LT1 owner had his motor/car/tuning screwed up. The larger base circle cam and deep skirt block isn't helping the bolt on LS1 car beat a Heads/Cam LT1 car, it's the LT1 owner beating himself.

Going fast in the 1/4 is a combination of many things. It's not just power. Guys can get bolt on LT1's to the 11's with the right combination/setup. Same thing with bolt on's and a camshaft swap. However building a stout 350/355 with everything else matched [heads/cam/tires/trans parts/etc] pretty much insures you could be running 11's without much seat time.

-Dustin-

 

You guys set the bar way too slow, if a heads/cam Caprice can go 11s what should an f-body do?
My car is a STREET car, Pat Gish has a race prepped Impala 3800lbs raceweight same topend I have and has gone 10.9. Now granted he had his bolton Impala running 12.3 which was solidly faster than any other, and way better than average.
With your weight advantage a heads/cam f-body should need a rollbar even for a street car not a perfectly dialed racecar.

Many of you handicap yourselves by pretending mediocre parts are equal to very good parts and then endup spending MORE buying into some crap you don't need atall.

My car runs through full exhaust, no dyno tune, best times are with stock Caprice rims on front with allseason tires (not skinnies), stock damper, stock ignition even a stock opti, power seats not racing seats, large battery in front(not relocated or small), handling shocks(not drag or adjustable).

What I am saying is do a few key things very well and save a LOT by not doing all kinds of other stuff. I put my money into a great topend, yeah I spent a few hundred dollars more there than other options BUT I saved a fortune by going faster without all that other stuff many b-body guys start buying for a low 12 second car.

My torque converter is an Edge not a Yank or Vig, yes Yank and Vig are very good pieces BUT their billet cover adds cost that is unnecessary at my power level, I saved hundreds there.