http://www.streetillusionsracing.com.../opti/opti.htm

On that install page,

"*Tip of the day* Save your self some frustration now and turn the crank shaft hub to the position shown. When you go to remove the Opti if one of the hub "arms" is up, you will never get it off."

would this be an issue with timing? if you did it after the pulley is already off? Oh another question is should anything be used on the spark plugs when you replace them. Like lock tight or grease or something like that. I'm gonna change the opti, plugs and wires for the first time tomorrow. I'm a little nervous.

 

Personally, I never turned the engine any particular way. The opti will only go on one way. You will know it is on right when you put it back on lined up right it will seat all the way. If you have to force it on at all (even 1/8 inch is too much) then it is not right. You should use dielectric grease on the contacts.

 

Put anti-seize on the spark plug threads. The heads are aluminum, that's where the plugs screw into, not the block.

 

The reason they say to put the hub in that position is because the opti won't physically come off without it being like that. IOW, the hub will be in the way. Nothing to do with timing. As long as you align the drive portion of the opti to the cam, you will be fine.

Put a small amount of anti-seize on the spark plug threads. Make sure your plugs are gapped at .050".

 

Thanks for clearing that up. I don't know what I was thinking. I was too far in thought trying to fig out if he had an LS1 (alum block) or LT1 but doesn't matter anyways since the heads are alum on either one.

shoebox....is that true for all years. I had to pull the hub to remove mine. I don't remember being able to turn the hub any particular way to avoid doing so.

 

one more question...is it bad to start the car just after you get the opti back on to make sure it works? even though all the coolant is drained and the accessory belt is off?

 

Should be ok. Plug all the electronics in tho...including the intake elbow w/ the the MAF sensor. Without that it might run weird/not at all?? I dunno....I'd put it on to make sure. I just wouldn't run it for very long. The coolant is a lubricator for the water pump. Let me re-phrase that.....you don't want that seal to rotate on the shaft w/o the coolant keeping it lubed.

 

You don't even have to put the water pump on. Just don't run it long.