1995 Z28 M6 what all do i have to remove to replace all three seals? i see some leaking just finished head gasket change. but i believer the timing cover was leaking before and i just didnt notice to repair when i did all the work on it. i heared you have to take the intake manifold off again is this true? anyone know where i can get a guid to doing this.

 

Things that need to be removed:

Water pump
Air pump
Crank pulley
Crank hub
Optispark

...and anything else extra needed to get to those items. A Haynes manual will provide you with enough info to do the job, but it isn't hard by any means.

 

hmm sounds simple just had all that off doing the head gasket repair and replacing opti.

 

The seal for the water pump drive gear is a bit tricky as the seal has an inner and outer lip; the inner lip tends to roll over during installation causing your new seal to leak.

 

I'm doing mine currently, I have the WP, opti, and pulley off. I just got the puller so I can remove the hub. It's not too hard just takes some time. But, when you do the timing cover you should really do the oil pan since removing the timing seal will most likely rip the oil pan gasket. Only problem I find is getting the gasket on the pan without having to raise the engine, possible but tough.

 

Yes, and I've never seen the actual tool. There is a guy who makes a tool but I've used this method and it hasn't let me down yet. Did this when I did my heads and cam, then last month when I rebuilt my motor and then yesterday on my buddies 94 Formula.

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It hasn't let me down yet. You can use anything so long as it fits over the gear on the motor and through the seal.

There was a popular thread that people used to revert to and that guy used sharpie marker cut in half.

Whatever works. Just be careful.

 

If I can keep building on this thread it would be nice, I'll be doing this tomorrow (removing hub, cover, pan, and replacing all seals and gaskets). I just want to make sure I have the process down correctly.

I have the puller so hopefully no problems with the hub. I'm going to set #1 TDC once cover is off. I have the pulley and hub marked up so I can put them back together correctly for a final reference.

I'll be using the socket method above for placing the seals. I'll pull the cover and take out the seals with it off, do I replace all the seals with it off or do I wait until it is back on to install the new seals? <seems like a dumb question but I want to be 100% sure!

Then when I place the cover back on with the new cover gasket I'll put permatex ultra black on the bottom portion that meets the pan gasket then bolt the cover on. Would the rtv be applied between the cover gasket and the block or do I put it on both sides of the cover gasket? Then I'll put the ultra black on the rear of the pan gasket and also the front where again it meets the cover, then bolt it back on. Again, would I just put rtv on top of the gaskets or what?

Once that is done, I'll install the new seals with the socket method...once sure I can wait to put them on once the cover is on or off. Can I also put rtv on these seals as well? From what I see on mine currently, it looks like someone added small amounts of rtv before, but the seals look stock.

Only thing left would be the WP seals. The gaskets from what I understand can take rtv on both sides before placing against the block? And I also didn't notice any o-rings on anything when I removed things.

Sorry for the long post, I just need for sure clarification. I've been searching the forums and resource sites.

 

1. You don't have to mark the pulley to hub alignment...it only goes on one way. You may need a puller to get the pulley off. DON'T put the puller jaws on the outside edge of the damper pulley or you'll ruin it. You will need a puller to get the hub off the crank. You can mark this relationship if you like but it doesn't matter which way it goes on.
2. Replace the seals with the cover off and use a block of wood behind the cover for support. Tap gently so as not to distort the seal shells.
3. They make a retainnig material for the seals that is more like threadlocker than RTV. Use the correct material.
4. I use a spray adhesive/gasket sealer on one side of the waterpump gaskets but you can use RTV. Stick the gaskets to the water pump and not the block...it makes removal cleaner and seal just as well. Don't forget the water pump drive coupler when reassembling.
5. I put RTV where the oil pan gasket goes over the curved areas front and rear, applying it to the pan only.

Good luck!

 

I put a small bead of RTV on the timing cover itself and rear seal, then a couple dabs in each corner where they meet the block. Haven't had any issues yet.

 

You can put all the seals into the cover before installing except the water pump drive seal. If you put that into the cover and then put the cover on you will shred it. That goes on last.

For my gaskets, I buy a can of copper gasket maker in the aerosol can and spray all my gaskets down. I use this on my head gaskets, intake gaskets, timing cover, and water pump gaskets. It puts a nice tacky coating on them. I have never had a leak using this method.

I do not ever put any rtv on my oil pan gasket.

FWIW, we pulled the timing cover on a 94 the other day and half of the oil pan came with it.

If you pull that timing cover and it's never been removed before, you can count on tearing the oil pan gasket and can plan on doing that also. Install the oil pan gasket dry.

 

You can pre install the water pump drive seal with the cover off and not shred it on cover install. All you need is a cover off a sharpie to guide the seal.

GM uses the RTV sealer on the corners of the pan gasket and It's always worked for me. I guess you've show you can skip it without issue.....

 

There is a thread on an impala forum where a guy gives a step by step with pictures as to how to do this. I haven't seen it in years though and I've never tried it.

 

hmm i just replaced oil pan seal do i have to go back in and mess with it when i do this timing cover junk/

 

Can anyone also give me a link to the full timing cover link with all seals. cant find it on summit

 

Be careful not to damage the pan gasket or you will be back to square one on the oil pan gasket. Unless your timing cover is leaking don't pull it off, just install the seals with timing cover on. I made a tool to install the water pump seal by cutting off the end of a plastic funnel, it worked great. Just cut the end off of the funnel, the large part of the funnel should be slightley larger than the water pump coupler.