Is it possible to pull the timing cover slightly off without taking the crank keyway off (the three prong thing)? My water pump shaft assembly snapped and I sure as heck do not want the hassle of taking the full hub off and having to reinstall it.

 

you can avoid taking the hub off maybe, buy why? that only takes two minutes to pull and is simple as pie.

-Edit* actually you'd probably ruin the seal on it if you pulled it out over the rough part of the harmonic balacer hub.-

Your still goin to have to drop the front of the oil pan before that timing cover will move, and thats gonna take you awhile and is a PITA.


-brent

 

GREAT!!!

Does the hub go on only one way as well or do I have to take my sweet time? Can I just remove the two front oil pan bolts and slide it out? When I pull both off can I get away with using a three prong claw puller or will I have to use the regular bolt type?

 

You pull the balancer with a three jaw puller.

Then remove the bolt to the hub slightly and start pulling on the hub with the 3 jaw. Make sure there are still a few threads of the bolt in, but that it is also loosened so that the hub can be pulled. Pick up a longer bolt if neccessary. That should be a piece of cake.

Now the hard part. You will need ~four sockets, can't remeber the size, shallow and deep, swivel, and ~10" extension. You must loosen the oil pan bolts all the way back. Then remove all of the timing cover bolts and pull the timing cover(there are alignment studs) while prying the oilpan down. Some people pry the seal out first, it's really thin on the corners and you don't want to rip it.

All the cam install guides, shoebox's, street lethal, ect will cover this. the Hub is the easy part though.

gl
-b

edit* oh yeah, the hub has a hole in one side. That lines up with a small score mark on the crank. Just look when you take it off to make sure it's there, if not mark it, or you won't be able to put the hub back on aligned, and then the harmonic balancer with the yellow triangle aligned with the triangle ont he hub. The hub is not keyed though. Also lubrication is the key to getting it back on, and you will need the longer bolt to get it started pulling back on, then switch to the regular bolt.

 

AAAARRRGGGHHHH!!!!

 

I leave the crankshaft bolt in while I pull the hub? Is that so I have leverage with the 3 jaw puller? I looked at a lot of the sites and I did not realize I have to pull the freakin chain too. What a royal PITA!!! I've changed cams and stuff in my earlier small blocks but never have I ever worked on a car that required this type of labor!! How do I get the hub back on? I sound like a moron but I do not want to screw this up considering the stupid gear broke and I want to take my time.

 

While you are pulling the hub leave a longer bolt threaded in but not tightened down. The purpose of this is so that the puller doesn't damage the threads. If the bolt isn't tightened down, but rather just in a half dozen rotations there should be plenty of room for the hub to loosen before it contacts the bolt head.

When you put it back on you simply use a longer bolt that the original so that you can start threading it. Once you start pulling the hub on but before that bolt bottems out, swap the original bolt back in because there should be enough length for it to catch the threads safely now.

The chain is simple enough to take off, but you may need to carefully use an open end because a socket may not fit on there.

once again, good luck
brent

 

The lt1 chains tend to develop lots of slack over time. It might be a good idea to replace the chain while your in there, and at least inspect the gears.

 

All set!!! Just have to bolt the air pump back up and it is done!!! What a pain in the a$$!! Thanks for all your help guys I wouldn't have made it if it wasn't for some support.