Timing chain question for upgrade...
I have a Hot Cam in now w/ plans to go to a CC 306 after heads and block work, and still retain my unvented opti. Haven't heard/seen anything that would suggets this won't work. I do have a CSI water pump.
Thanks!
Thanks!
fastcam,
you're planning to use the stock timing set with the 306 cam?(that's most likely the cam i'm going with - but i was under the assumption the stock timing set would not handle the rpms)
thx
larry
you're planning to use the stock timing set with the 306 cam?(that's most likely the cam i'm going with - but i was under the assumption the stock timing set would not handle the rpms)
thx
larry
Originally posted by fastcamz28
That's what I was wanting to hear!
Thanks!
That's what I was wanting to hear!
Thanks!
Good question...I am sticking with the stock timing set because I dont plan on being at the track too often....and I dont plan on taking my car beyond 6000rpms anyways....so stock should do.
Originally posted by jonaddis84
Joe Overton uses a stock 94 timing set to go 9.7s @138mph...just some food for thought..he only puts 20-30 passes on it though and replaces every winter, but regardless..
Joe Overton uses a stock 94 timing set to go 9.7s @138mph...just some food for thought..he only puts 20-30 passes on it though and replaces every winter, but regardless..
I took my stocker out at 57K when I did the cam last year, up until then it had bolton's only since about 40k and was around 300rwhp. I was pretty surprised at how loose my original chain was, it had a lot of play in it, I could move it back and forth a good inch. I went with the Cloyes roller, I'm very glad that I upgraded it to something stronger.
Originally posted by GREGG 97Z
Most of us arent tearing into our engine every year though to switch cams and replace the timing set, at least I'm not.
I took my stocker out at 57K when I did the cam last year, up until then it had bolton's only since about 40k and was around 300rwhp. I was pretty surprised at how loose my original chain was, it had a lot of play in it, I could move it back and forth a good inch. I went with the Cloyes roller, I'm very glad that I upgraded it to something stronger.
Most of us arent tearing into our engine every year though to switch cams and replace the timing set, at least I'm not.
I took my stocker out at 57K when I did the cam last year, up until then it had bolton's only since about 40k and was around 300rwhp. I was pretty surprised at how loose my original chain was, it had a lot of play in it, I could move it back and forth a good inch. I went with the Cloyes roller, I'm very glad that I upgraded it to something stronger.
So lets clear something up....
I have a 94 formula. Therefore non vented opti. However when doing a cam swap, does the dowel need to be shorter for non vented? If a cam meant for a 95+ car is installed on a 92-94, then what can be done to make this work??? Simply cut the dowel down? is this safe? (I want to do this without swapping to a vented opti)
this thread is starting to get confusing...
I have a 94 formula. Therefore non vented opti. However when doing a cam swap, does the dowel need to be shorter for non vented? If a cam meant for a 95+ car is installed on a 92-94, then what can be done to make this work??? Simply cut the dowel down? is this safe? (I want to do this without swapping to a vented opti)
this thread is starting to get confusing...
I think the dowl is a bit longer on the 95+, the face of teh cam has a bigger opening to accomodate the vented opti as well. Not sure if this will work. I am getting a cam ground for the 94'....so it will look stock.



thanks fellas.