LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Which timing chain

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Old Dec 19, 2006 | 06:50 AM
  #1  
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Which timing chain

I need to know what timing chain it would be for a 94 t/a. I dont mind doing the grinding and i do have a electric wp. WOuld like the cloyes but not sure which part number? i have a double roller cloyes for a older style 350 thats new but i didnt know if it would work, and i did try the search and the answers were very scattered
Old Dec 19, 2006 | 06:54 AM
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mods?
the double roller has to be for a roller cam (87-up).
if you are stock internal then a stock chain will work fine. depends on what kind of money you are wanting to spend.
Old Dec 19, 2006 | 08:14 AM
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If you have not converted to a vented opti, you are basically stuck with using a stock timing set.
Old Dec 20, 2006 | 06:18 AM
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ok well my mods will be a .060 lt1 with forged dished pistons, forged 6.0 rods, forged cola crank, twickflow twisted wedge heads, comp full roller blower cam, D1SC............im not sure whether my opti is vented or not....seems like the guy i bought it from said it was but im not sure, i just pulled the radiator and front of the motor but i have yet to get the waterpump off yet.
Old Dec 20, 2006 | 07:29 AM
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.060" over is awfully thin for an LT1. Your block may not be able to go out that far. Sonic checking may be needed. Anyway, if it has not been converted, I would add that to your plans. That way you can get a decent timing set (sounds like you may need it). Either an LT4 Extreme Duty set (if you keep the mechanical water pump) or a Cloyes 9-3145 (if you go with an electric pump).
Old Dec 20, 2006 | 10:08 AM
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well the machining has been done just fine, and i already have the electric wp
Old Dec 20, 2006 | 10:11 AM
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Shoebox is right, that is alot to take out of the cylinders. I would be a little nervous about having thin cylinder walls and the added strain of the D1SC blower on top of it.
Old Dec 20, 2006 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by xxxtreme36
well the machining has been done just fine, and i already have the electric wp
did you have the block sonic checked? or are we just guessing here...
Old Dec 20, 2006 | 10:26 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by xxxtreme36
well the machining has been done just fine, and i already have the electric wp
Then you can use the Cloyes (which is actually the least costly) .

Good luck with your engine. Seems like the board member machinists on here don't like to go more than .040" over on an LT1. Throwing a blower on top of that appears to be even more risk. I hope it works out for you.
Old Dec 20, 2006 | 04:40 PM
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ya it was def sonic checked, no guessing here. I hope it works out well myself. I havent gotten the blower yet, i may end up with a p1sc but im not sure yet. What about the grinding on the timing cover..........is it a pain or not too bad. Thanks alot guys
Old Dec 20, 2006 | 11:54 PM
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Grinding the timing cover takes 5 minutes with a die grinder. Take a bit more time with a dremel.
Old Dec 21, 2006 | 05:50 AM
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ya thats what ive been hearing but i wasnt sure.... and how do i tell when i pull the opti if its the vented version or not?
Old Dec 21, 2006 | 07:13 AM
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Non-vented opti is driven by a small splined shaft that sticks out of the opti, into the middle of the timing set. The whole on the timing cover is pretty small.

Vented opti has about a 2 1/2" - 3" hole in the timing cover, is driven by the dowel pin, and has a pretty big guide that sticks out of the back of the opti that fits into the cam.

And the easiest way to see it... if you have two vacuum lines going to the opti, it's vented
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