Well, we all live and learn. I've done the same thing when I was learning on how to work on mechanical things.

May be best just to leave it alone, but if you want to try and get it out......

Next thing I would try is to maybe use the next size up on either a standard/metric hex key set to see if I could get it out(may have to gently tap on it with a hammer to wedge it in...then turn slowly with pressure applied to the hex key towards the bolt to keep it from rounding and slipping). An easy out set might have a bit that would bite good, but you don't want to break one of those off in the head. So be careful. A last resort would be to drill off the head of the screw.

Did you use a good quality hex wrench set? I've see cheaper ones start to round, then take out the hex head of the bolt as it's grinding things up.

Remember, all bolts have a torque rating and spec. As a general guide, this may help.....

Bolt Depot - US Recommended Bolt Torque Table

....just pay attention between lb-in and lb-ft. Factor of 12 on the difference. I've seen several arguments in mechanical engineering circles on generating a "general" chart, but you have to start somewhere.

With the above said, when tightening anything else on the car(that came from GM), I recommend a factory manual to look up the torque specs. However, this chart is good too.

1994 LT1 Torque Specs

Beware that the thermostat housing spec is way wrong for the LT1 values(in the factory manual). I have no idea how they came up with 21 lb-ft for those bolts. I had a couple spares and wrung the heads off those things when I tried 21 lb-ft. It's even misprinted in a Haynes manual. That is a massively wrong misprint..... I used the LS1 values of 132 lb-in.

 

Thanks for the info ACE!! It's best I leave it alone before I jack it up even more. SMH

 

If you don't want to try to remove the screw, but you still want to loctite it, use green loctite. It will wick into assembled parts.

 

Left handed drill bits.


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