I'm doing the cooler delete tonight. My oil pressure has recently gotten too low. After i let the car sit (had the top end in pieces), i put it back together and now cold PSI idle is 40. used to be 60.

when warm, the oil pressure is around 18 idle, 20 from 1k-1.5k 25 from 1.5k-2k, and about 35 WOT. and it seems to get worse everyday even tho i keep my oil leveled off.

it used to do this also, when i changed my oil it would be high, and slowly degrade to low.

i hope the cooler delete fixes it.

 

I got to question the accuracy of that pressure sending unit. I think a very low quality piece. It's just an idiot light. Very expensive too.

 

If I remember right though there was two different oil coolers on the LT1's. One kin the early years and one in the later years. Also one was better than the other in terms of actual cooling and NOT clogging up. If someone could back me up on this and specify that would help too!

 

I've heard the cooler on the 94's was a better design & less prone to clogging. I'm not sure whether that cooler was offered on the 93's or not. I think the design changed in '95.

 

Mine is a '95 and it is silver. I believe the 93 - 94 was black. From what I've read, the earlier ones were better. I run sythetic and haven't had a problem with my cooler. But I'd like to take it apart to see if there are any unexpected boogers waiting to clog the system.

 

If you delete the cooler what do you do with coolant lines? Do you plug them at the water pump and radiator? Run a hose from the water pump to the radiator,or what?I would personally like to keep mine but switch to the '94 style. DOES ANYONE KNOW THE PART NUMBER FOR THE '94 COOLER? My motor is going back in saturday after 1 1/2 yrs.So I wanna get it right.MY cooler had alot of metal shavings in it from a spun bearing and we're having ahelluva time getting them all out. So I heard the '94 was better even though it was metal instead of aluminum? Any GM engineers out there?

 

if its full of crap dont put it back in. Buy a aftermarket one or go without it.

 

Is that big enough? I always read that for engine oil, -10 was a minimum. anything less was considered a restriction. I'm just asking ...

I use a Setrab cooler with a ducted fan.
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product

Before cooler, engine oil temps, as measured at the port just above the oil filter would easily peg the gauge at 300* after 20 minutes of road racing.

Now, the oil temp stabilizes about 70* above engine coolant temps.

 

All cars without the cooler have a bypass hose running from the radiator to the water pump (or you could just plug both ends).

 

Yes, -8an is OK for up to about 450hp. I run 20w-50 redline (383 - D1 Lt1). The SUmmit cooler (not the best you can get) does a good job @ cooling the oil. Half the plumbing is hard pipe alum -8an size. Hard pipe aluminum takes less room than a hose. I use -8an hose for the final run to and from the cooler up front (about 18 inches). I advise to use hose clamps in case hose line comes loose. -10an would also be better but more difficult to run. A 5/8 hard alum line is difficult to bend. Hope this helps. B.

 

Interesting.

I used the Canton sandwich adaptor and Aeroquip NPT to -10AN adaptors. I then ran flex line along the oil pan and along the frame rail to reach the oil cooler.

Using Aeroquip swivel fittings allowed me to "clock" the fittings where they best fit.

The forced fan unit is located where the battery was and I have NACA ducted outside air to it.

The line I used is from a hydraulic supply house. It's made for high pressure, high temp hydraulic lines in extreme conditions. It's the standard braided line, but with a nice fabric, thermal covoering over it. The coating has to be stripped off in order to install the fittings.

 

Thanks I think I'll run the bypass hose and go with an aftermarket cooler


I pulled my cooler apart today man are they JUNK its easy to see how they can get clogged.Anyway I checked with the chevy dealer about getting the '94 style (before I decided to go aftermarket) he said the '94 and '95 style oil cooler was discontinued with no replacement.The hard lines are also different between the two,so if you find a '94 style cooler make sure you get the lines. I just know I won't be running that Boo sh*t setup on my Z

 

The unavailabilty of the lines was the reason I by-passed the cooler to begin with

 

How are you I kind of feel the same way I have just finished a full rebuild on my 96 Camaro .luckily I just started putting water in it. before I put filter on and the water was pouring out of this so called cooler.

 

the gasket on the oil cooler lines that the four torque screws go into. that gasket is bad it has a flat gasket with the four holes in it then it has a rubber seal on it. for the inlet and outlet that's the one I need. I cannot find it any suggestions before I delete this thing?