Those of you with slp headers, how do you not burn plug wires?
Those of you with slp headers, how do you not burn plug wires?
Ive bet i have changed 1 wire on my car for at least 25 times, since wednesday it has been 3 days, so 3 days=3 plug wires, im not sure on which cylinder number it is, but it is the 3rd one back on the drivers side, any advice will be appreciated, and i have tried routing it every way possible
There are many ways to deal with headers and wires. Here is a few basic tips I recommend. I have the SLP 94-95 headers and have never had a problem with burned wires:
Don't get the big fat stiff wires just because they are the largest MM dia on the market. 8mm will work just fine and make routing and fitment easier. I use Magnecor 8.5mm which is a very flexible, easy routing and fitting wire. I like MSD wires. I use them on all my vehicles, EXCEPT my LT1. They are thick and stiff and don't fit as well.
Do use plenty of tie straps to secure wires into position and away from headers
Do use insulating products such as sleeves, wraps, etc. I like MSD and they have a number of different types of these products.
Don't get the big fat stiff wires just because they are the largest MM dia on the market. 8mm will work just fine and make routing and fitment easier. I use Magnecor 8.5mm which is a very flexible, easy routing and fitting wire. I like MSD wires. I use them on all my vehicles, EXCEPT my LT1. They are thick and stiff and don't fit as well.
Do use plenty of tie straps to secure wires into position and away from headers
Do use insulating products such as sleeves, wraps, etc. I like MSD and they have a number of different types of these products.
Most people run the wires over the valve covers(the Taylor OVC kit is popular)- I have Jet Hot LT's was having problems with burnt wires so I installed the kit and thermal sleeves on the boots, but haven't run the car for an extended amount of time yet. They look completely safe from burning now, the only risk I can see is if one of the pass. side wires works its way into the path of my belt/pulleys.
I have LPE Stainless 1 3/4" shorties..had same problem with the #5 cylinder....youre burning the boot on the header, right? you have to go over the valve cover and down to the plug...if you don't want to buy the over the valve cover set up from Thunder racing, then you get your hands on a long plug wire...I used to have to buy 2 sets of wires so I could make 1 custom set...Anyway, go to Home Depot and buy a set of 1/2" or 5/8" insulated metal clamps (depends on size of wire) from the electrical section, route the plug wire over the valve cover through the clamps with the clamps mounted through the first 2 centerbolt holes on your valve cover (the bolts fit perfectly) and down to your plug...this will give you 1/2" air gap and you will be fine...for added insurance I run Accel heat sleeves over that wire, too..Been doing this for 8 years with no problems...I usually change wires every 2 years just as routine maintenance..good luck hope this helps..
--Alan
--Alan
I use the stock wire looms with my Taylor Spiral Pro wires. I also use the factory aluminum boot shield on that particular boot.
When needed, wire ties will hold the wires together and keep the slack where I need it and away from where I dont. I burned one wire on the PS of the engine (where I couldn't see it touching) but have never had a problem with the DS. Just take your time and double check every wire to make sure that they cant move and contact the header.
When needed, wire ties will hold the wires together and keep the slack where I need it and away from where I dont. I burned one wire on the PS of the engine (where I couldn't see it touching) but have never had a problem with the DS. Just take your time and double check every wire to make sure that they cant move and contact the header.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jim88iroc305
Car Audio and Electronics
1
Aug 13, 2002 09:24 PM
Wilson
Car Audio and Electronics
0
Jul 21, 2002 05:08 PM



