I would like to know how the xe cam compares as well as cc305/306. I know the power ranges are different of course.

 

Here is something to think about.
I have seen a few people on here make 500 to the wheels on the spray with a LT4 hot cam with port work and all.

Say you have a full open exhaust with LT's no emmision stuff, an average to good port job, TB, good ignition system and fuel pump, tune, LT4 hot cam or similar with rockers and all, 150 wet shot with timing retard going threw an A4. Do you think you could make 500 with the auto? It might be a strech but I have seen it on a few cars but they had a dyno tune, i am stuck with mail order for now since no local shops have OBD-II .

I am scared for my stock A4 on that lol.....

 

OOPs, it was late and for some reason I said pro mags rockers. . . I can't think of the name of the other one that I got for around $160 right now.

YZF/LS1 Freak: I've got a fully built 4l60e if you are lookin into some serious power like that. PM me if you are interested. Also, you better be lookin for a new rear end with around 500 ponies.

You will notice a BIG difference with a larger cam than a hotcam AND porting the heads. The heads on our cars flow terribly, so any work done to them will compliment any cam and will also allow you to run a larger cam. Also, you will want Long tube headers anytime you do a cam (emissions people-shorties or midlenghts)

pHEnomIC:
The CC305/306 vs the XE grinds such as XE230/236 are that the CC cams will provide higher HP at at higher RPM, while the XE grinds will provide more torque and almost the same amount of HP as a CC grind but at lower RPMS. Two cams (CC and XE) with the same durations differ in their ramp rates (XE having a higher ramp rate). The XE230/236 will peak around 61-6200rpms, while the CC306(230/242) will peak around 63-6500rpms.

Ryan

 

Ok, Ryan not to step on your dick here... I know you are 18 and I too knew everything back then but here is how all of that really works. (and yes I DO KNOW since this is what I do everyday)

The difference in the Comp shelf cams like the CC305/306 and the Xtreme Energy (XE) cams/lobes is how aggressive they are. That's right, but what you see in power is much different.

I your TQ curve is actually quite helpfull in showing the difference here from what you did to what can be done.

Here is a dyno chart from a cam with duration numbers similar to yours
Dyno Chart

Now Yours

Price difference in those two is about $250-$300 if you run a set of Pro Mags and some good ARP studs with them.

26.5 Ft Lbs more
12 HP more
6500rpm and the motor still pulls strong
325 ft lbs of TQ or more from 2800rpm to 5500rpm

The big difference here is the little differences in everything, the details are what count.

Most guys would look at these two cams and honestly say, ok this one has a little more here, and a little less here but other than that they should pretty much perform the same, obviously that's not the case.

The reason why they perform differently is because the valves are being controled MUCH better on one hand and not in the other. The cam specs have something to do with this and so do the parts that go with them. Every little details gets a motor to make TQ and HP and then make it live. Valve Springs are probably the second most important part of a cam swap, but things like Rocker Arm Studs (7/16 ARP vs. a 3/8), Pro Mag vs. A Aluminum Bodied Rocker, 5/16 .080 Wall 1 Piece high Quality Pushrod vs. a hardened stock replacement are all VERY imporant in the differences here.

The higher quality parts make it work, you could throw these same parts at the other cam and find power, but then the lobe choices come into play.

The XE lobes are verty aggressive, they come off the seat faster and will open the valve for more time (aka duration) at higher lifts compared to a tamer cam lobe. You can get two cam lobes that are the same duration at .050 and the same lifts and they will act completely different from one another on the motor due to the faster opening and closing. These little differences will make a huge change in what is needed to control the valve, and if you don't account for that it will make a huge change in power also.

Just a little rant....

Bret

 

Is there a cam that pulls noticably higher as the rpms climb? I'm close to stock right now, and i don't like the way it pulls, it just seems constant from 2200-5300, is that the way it will always be? or whats it feel like with a cam. CC305/6 ?

 

Aftermarket Cam vs. Stock Cam

That should give you what you are looking for...

Thread about that chart

Bret

 

On the XE230/236 can you still use the stock converter and injectors and all?


I would like to get very close to or touch 500hp on the spray, it all depends on the cam I get but I doubt I will be very hard on the car till I beef up the drivetrain. I know if I got a stall that on the sticky tires I would blow out that rear. This winter I would like to get the tranny beefed up some but not really get a new one because this one only has like 10k miles on it and I know it will last a little longer then that 10 bolt but then I wonder how much I could sell that tranny for in relation to a built auto hmmmm. I have a 20k mile aurburn rear with mods right now but I know I would not get that much out of it lol, maybe $400

 

All this cam talks peaked my interest in Cam's again.. Probably something I would do down the road. Not to hijack the thread, but how do some of these Cam's fair in emission tests? I'm sure there are a tonne of people who would love to do Cam swaps if they were able to marginally pass emissions tests...

 

I beleive that the XE grinds are a superior choice to the Magnum stuff for just about any application that involves stock heads. When stuffed into a stock longblock, the right one will make the same power as that ever popular CC306 or 847 without spinning the stock rotating assembly to the moon.
I made the numbers in the sig with an XE grind that is actually smaller than the 230/236, a stock water pump, shorty headers, and no cutout.

 

Z97LT1, you have any spintron and dyno numbers to back up that claim?

I actually do.... but to which way it favors is what I'm paid to know.

 

I passed emissions with my cam (XE227/233 on a 114LSA) no problems.

I also dynoed 302/304 on a tune for a 112lsa running almost a 14 on the a/f ration at 5300 rpms. That pull only went to 5450 and my power just fell on its face at 5k because of my stock manifolds... nasty pull from 4-5 though

 

Well, I havent really seen any CC306 cars (stock heads or not) make more power than some of the (usually smaller) XE grinds. I dont personally have a bunch of dyno numbers to back that claim, but my tuner does for sure.
FWIW, my car made as much power as most stock headed C306 cars, and did it well under 6400 revs.
I didnt say anything about your custom grinds Bret, thats a whole 'nother matter.

 

Very true... but don't generalize with the lobes, all lobes have their place in the right combination... The CC306 has too much exhaust duration and is lacking in other areas to make it a fast cam. IMHO

Bret

 

So, do you sell cam packages? I'm intrested

 

So back to my original questions about the stall and all :P


My main fear is spraying it to near 500rwhp from a roll and toasting the tranny. At the track I would not be to hard on it because of the rear. I can't really afford a tranny right now so i would hate to built the motor some and blow the tranny the day I take it out but if it happens it happens, I might just jet down the spray to get me to the 450rwhp range but even then....