I just got in my new cam for my 383. And I went to install it and I almost got it all the way in and it would not go any further into the block. So I pulled it out. And I did not see anything wrong. So I tried to reinstall same thing. So I pull it back out and looked into where the cam bearings are. And it looks to be a rod in the cams path. And so I reinstalled the cam. And when I got to that point where it would not go any further. I rotated the engine over a little with a rachet. And tried agian. And It went the rest of the way in.

So is there a certain position the crank needs to be in to install a BIG cam on a 383 3.75 stroke h beam rods? Or do you put the cam on the last cam bearing it will sit on and rotate the engine a little and then continue to slide it in like I did?
I have done a few swaps on my stock block and never had any problems

 

The only thing connecting to the cam besides the timing chain is the oil pump drive. Assuming that you disconnected the stub gear drive from the lifter valley, there's nothing preventing the cam from reaching the back bearing and fully seating in the block. You probably just got hung up on one of the bearings, like most of us do. You removed all the lifters and PRs right?

 

How much was sticking out when your first tried to install it?

If it was about an inch, did you forget to take the oil pump shaft out at the back of the lifter valley? Not sure how you would have ever got the cam out with it in but that's the only thing I can think of the would be coming in contact with the cam.

Edit: beat to the punch

 

Oopsie...

 

The oil pump shaft was out also the lifters. The cam never made it to were the oil pump shaft was at. When it stoped the last time. I pull the cam back onto the third cam bearing. I then turned the motor over with a rachet very little. And then it pushed all the way on the forth cam bearing And then I pushed it all the way in no problem. The rod was in the path of the cam Just barly enough that the cam would contact it. At first I thought it was some cam bearing flash and when I put the cam in. It pushed up keeping the cam from going in. But the more I looked at the cam bearing path it was the rod I am pretty sure of it.

 

If a rod was in the way for the cam, then when the motors running the rod would hit the cam, so I highly doubt that was the problem.

 

Depending on the type of rod and some other factors, you may need a small base circle cam to fit. Basically, the connecting rods at maximum travel might come into contact with the cam. This happened to a friends 383.

BRAD

 

You will probably need a small base circle cam to clear those h-beams. I had to have one to clear my Scat h-beams. Once you have the cam in, turn the crank slowly to see if the rods hit.

 

Well it was the cam journal that was hiting it. If the cam was all the way in. There would be more room. I would think due to the cam lobes would be in that area. or spaced apart were the rod would not hit I am really just trying to make sure when I start the car there is no problems. I dont think a 383 would require a small base circle cam. Not reall sure if a small bace cam is just smaller width cam lobe so the rod does not hit the lobes

Unless it was the angle I was looking at the bearing It did look like the cam bearing had a flat spot on it. But I looked at it for a while and determined it was the rod. Because it scared me. I thought I had a bad bearing. I might go back out pull the cam and rotate the engine while looking in the cam bearing passage.And see if that is the case. I may also call the machine shop to see what they say about it.

 

It should be a small base cam. I ordered it for the 383. I think this clears it all up now due to the position of one of the rods ( was in the path of the cam) The very back cam journal came in contact with it. When I tried to put it in

So basicly when installing a cam in a 383 you need to make sure the rods are out of the way. Of the cam way. So you can slide in the cam. I did not do that I did not know it was required.

 

I think you need to do more research on that. The CC306 I originally got for my stroker would not clear the rods. A 383 or larger stroker will need more clearence (depending on the rod usually) due to the longer throws on the crank.

 

Unless you specifically order a small base circle its not going to be. If the rod was in the way of the cam at one position it will return to that postion on the next rotation and hit the cam. All I am saying is you better check the clearance after the cam is installed by turning the crank a few times.

 

Scratch what I just said in the post I just deleated. There was a tight spot and I thought the rod hit the cam. I am going to make sure it is a small base. cam

 

Since you already have the cam in the block.... why not spin it by hand and see if anything hits???

Sometimes you hit a rod when installing a cam in a stroker. Could be dipping the cam a little below the cam bore centerline or may just be the fact that the cam journals are hitting. Duh, they're quite a bit bigger than the lobes, otherwise you aren't gonna get the lobes through the journal bores.

Check to see if it's a reduced base but also check to see if it will spin without contact.

-Mindgame

 

[QUOTE=Mindgame]
Check to see if it's a reduced base but also check to see if it will spin without contact.

I just went out and put the timing chain on and spun the motor over. When the timing marks almost lined back up the crank came to a halt. I could not turn it. I went inside and came back out to try it agian It moved freely. I turned the motor over about 15 times. And it seem to spin freely.

I will find out if it is a small base cam or not.