If you can, e-mail the dyno sheet to me. I really think you have some gearing/top end issues that need to be addressed.
And yes if you're going to spray then stick with what you got.

 

Scanners not working. When you say, stay with what you have, do you mean the 2800 Vig. or is it ok to get the 3600 Yank and still spray a 100 shot without running out of gear?

 

If you are using that car for N20 passes then you probably want to stay with the gearing you have w/ a 26" tire. Converters? I wouldn't have the foggiest clue. The 2800 might be too tight of a converter to get the most out of a nitrous pass. Just depends on what you want. I'm not sure nitrous converters are all that street friendly. Better to ask someone w/ more auto/nitrous experience. Perhaps on the N20 board?

 

Actually nitrous converters are more street friendly since they act like a tighter stall on motor.

 

I think a 3600 would be a good choice...Ideally you want a converter that stalls 500-700 rpm (some go as high as 900 rpm) below your torque peak...I think the 2800 is to low...I have a Joe O. 226/234 and run the Vig 3600 with a 3.73 gear...I'm not going to spray it so I'm switching to 4.10s and a 28" tire...But for now I'm 60'ing 1.55 fairly consistently...The mph bubble for 11s is around 112...You should be there...Its interesting to see how much your car picks up from the 1/8th on out...

--Alan

 

It's quite amazing how hard it's pulling on the top end. I can't believe a 222/226 cam could pull that hard. Maybe Joe O. does know something about cams.

 

Not doubting any of the parts designers, but I would assume you are having a problem down low...not a fantastic back half. If that is true you have gains to be had. How is your tranny fluid?

Or I could be wrong and it back halfs like a 6spd car.

 

I thought they were looser.

<------ doesn't know di(k about converters.

 

ABA383, the car was going to Speed Inc. for some little stuff on the 24th of this month. It was some stuff I can live without for now. Instead I'll spend my limited funds on the 3600 Yank. That and I'm having some tabs welded on the axle tubes so I can triangulate the rearend. I already have all of the pieces needed to do so. I'm trying to make this 10 bolt live for a while.

tireburnin, with the Yank and pulling a hundred pounds out of the car, plus lowering the 2-3 shift, maybe my first half will pick up enough to pull off a high 11. As far as the stock trans goes, (does a shift kit count) I guess I should check the fluid. It was flushed 2k miles ago and was a tad burnt, but just barely.

Thanks for the replys guys, any "guesses" on how much the higher stall will help my ETs?

 

Depends on your torque peak. I was thinking about it and if you're going to spray you may need to get a larger tire or gear to something less than 3.73.

 

Or maybe, just use it in second and third gear.

 

May not be enough... worth a shot I reckon. The last thing you want to do is end up over your hp peak crossing the traps.

 

Nah they act tighter on motor, for example a 5000 stall converter on nitrous might only flash to 4000 on motor. That's just an example, it will obviously vary from combo to combo. I know my friend was looking at a 5600 stall on nitrous from neil chance and it will only stall to ~4000 on motor or something like that.

 

If you are not able to get it on the dyno to see where your torque peak is I would consult Yank to see what stall speed they recommend for your combo and goals...

--Alan

 

Torque peaks at 5400, and thanks, I will call Yank. I'm sure I don't want to run anything bigger than the 3600 for drivability concerns. Plus I hope that it won't be to much converter if I spray a 100HP shot. I'm not switching gears or tires to make this work. I'll just have to figure out when the nitrous should kick in to coincide with what I have to work with.