used this method

the coil is lasor shot pro by holley i can't find what it should be regesturing with the ohm meter. stock should be around 8,000. mine is reading 2,300 i think on all 4 terminals.

i don't really know how to use an ohm meter. heres what i had it set on 200k and it read 2.3 so i think that would be 2,300.

so i need to know what it should be at and if this coil is ok. thanks

 

2.3 on the 200K scale is correct. 2300 ohms. You should be sure it zeros when the leads are connected together.

Sorry I don't know what the coil you have should read. contact the manufacturer for that info.

Have you hooked a plug or inline spark tester directly to the output of the coil to see if you have spark there?

There are a couple of more things you can check. Like voltage and ground to the coil and thru it to the ICM and also the IC signal from the PCM to the ICM.

Incidentally, I didn't find any retailer that carries one that will fit our vehicles and near as I cant tell, Holley doesn't even offer coils any longer. They are not in the Holley catalog. I could be wrong.

 

well the car will not start and this is where i am at in the trouble shooting process,

Its been fouling out plugs since the heads cam install, but i'm not going to pass blame on the tune just yet. i have seen a few things that i think may have caused this.

My Pcm was not grounded, i fixed this after it fouled out the plugs the first time.

Car ran and slowly got worse until today it would not start, checked the plugs and fouled.

the water temperature sensor (gauge not pcm) on the driver side head was not working, i just now fixed this today

there was a small vacume leak on the back of the intake manifold, i just fixed this today also

plugs were fouled out again so i changed those today

all fuses are good, and i had fuel pressure at the rail.

 

I seriously doubt the coil is to blame. Have you checked to see if you have spark? I've not seen weak spark from a coil. I have had coils which are firing thru the insulation to the frame. But that causes very erradic running.

Why don't you focus in the control portion of the engine. Like O2 readings and fuel trims?

Does it run ok in open loop vs closed loop?

Have you tried disconnecting one of the O2's to see if runs better?

 

i don't have any way of scanning the car, i have a laptop but not the cable or programs to check it out.

well as of now it won't even start. it slowly starting running worse and worse, barly starting at all and now after the things above were fixed it is not starting, would disconnecting an o2 possible get it to start? this would cause it to run in open loop, but what would that do?

 

No disconnecting the O2s will not change anything as far as starting. The engine always starts in open loop and then switches over to closed loop. The method of disconnecting an O2 is used for troubleshooting a condition that worsens when fully warmed up.

I would have to think based on the fact that you no longer start, that either your opti is installed incorrectly or you have an issue with the timing chain. But because it did start at one time and now it does not, more likely the opti has changed position.

This assumption comes after having eliminated all other posibilities. You have fuel pressure, you have injector pulses, the PCM is outputing the ignition control signal to the ICM, you have compression, you have spark etc.

You can very easily check the health of the cam, cam timing and ignition timing all in one shot. If your interested.

 

well the engine has 2200 miles on it, opti, cam, timing chain are all brang new.

This assumption comes after having eliminated all other posibilities. You have fuel pressure, you have injector pulses, the PCM is outputing the ignition control signal to the ICM, you have compression, you have spark etc.

how do i do all this i have an ohm meter. i know it has pressure to the rail, because i pushed the center piece of that fitting on top of the fuel rail.

to check the spark could i just pull a wire put the plug in it and watch?

 

Well just pushing the schrader valve once to see if fuel squirts out is not exactly checking pressure. The pressure could actually be much lower than spec and still "shoot" out the valve when depressed. A better method would be to relieve all the pressure at that valve and then cycle power on and off about 4 or 5 times and then depress the valve to see if fuel shoots out. Obviously the best way to check it would be to put a gage on it to see if it comes up to spec.

Yes you can check spark with a plug simply plugged into the plug wire laying on a ground point. However, spark at the plug out of the cylinder does not mean it's getting enough spark under compression. This however is seldom the case so you should be ok to check spark that way. A better way is use a spark check tool that has a gap much wider than a plug to simulate the power needed to jump the gap under compression.

Now if those 2 items check out ok, check for injector pulses.
I would go one simple step further and shoot fuel directly in the intake while someone cranks it over. See if she fires up.

Next go for a compression test and if you can't do all the cylinders, be sure to get at least one of the back ones (7 or 8).

If it still does not fire after all that, the spark timing must be occuring at the wrong time.

To double check spark timing. Set a cylinder to TDC. Now remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointing in the direction of where the contact in the cap would be for the cylinder you put at TDC. If you were to use a back cylinder, you would also find out if the cam were snapped in 2.

Try this pic to understand what I meant about the contact location. Remember you are looking at the inside of the cap so the positioning will be the mirror image.
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...31_40_full.jpg

Sorry the numbers on the cap are so small.