Tested new opti, low voltage on connector wires?
Tested new opti, low voltage on connector wires?
Shortly after I did my head install, began having ignition problems, such as:
-breaking up at high rpm (like hitting limiter),
-too many cranks to start than it should with new wires, plugs, and new LT4 starter
-and a few times died while driving, but after a few seconds, would start back up. Then one day it died 4 times on the way home, and once home, it never started again.
Thought it may be the opti due to corrosion in the connector, so cleaned up the connector and replaced the opti. Did the opti test on my new opti per shoebox's website, unplugged the ICM connector, with key in ON position.
With the black end of the multimeter on a ground, and the opti connector unplugged at the intake manifold, checked the PCM end of the connector.
Red/black wire = 5.12v
Pink/black wire = 0.05v
Red wire = 11.88v
Checked voltage with connector plugged into the opti, same results.
Checked voltage with ICM connector plugged in, same results as well.
Also checked the purple/white wire using DC on the meter (didn't have someone to crank the starter so couldn't check signal in AC), it got 5.11v as well.
These results are making me think that it may be something other than the opti? What should I test next to find my no-start problem?
*Not sure if related, but after putting the car back together, now when I hit my locks, they sound like the battery is almost dead, no power, and the windows take a long time to roll up?
-breaking up at high rpm (like hitting limiter),
-too many cranks to start than it should with new wires, plugs, and new LT4 starter
-and a few times died while driving, but after a few seconds, would start back up. Then one day it died 4 times on the way home, and once home, it never started again.
Thought it may be the opti due to corrosion in the connector, so cleaned up the connector and replaced the opti. Did the opti test on my new opti per shoebox's website, unplugged the ICM connector, with key in ON position.
With the black end of the multimeter on a ground, and the opti connector unplugged at the intake manifold, checked the PCM end of the connector.
Red/black wire = 5.12v
Pink/black wire = 0.05v
Red wire = 11.88v
Checked voltage with connector plugged into the opti, same results.
Checked voltage with ICM connector plugged in, same results as well.
Also checked the purple/white wire using DC on the meter (didn't have someone to crank the starter so couldn't check signal in AC), it got 5.11v as well.
These results are making me think that it may be something other than the opti? What should I test next to find my no-start problem?
*Not sure if related, but after putting the car back together, now when I hit my locks, they sound like the battery is almost dead, no power, and the windows take a long time to roll up?
Just realized I was testing with everything still hooked up, (Stripped away small spot on wires on harness side, have new harness on the way). Don't know why I thought to test like that?
So I'll test again with harness unplugged at manifold both ends, and opti end of the harness.
Results on pin A and D should be >10v as tested at all 3 connections (On manifold both PCM side and opti side, and then at the opti plug of harness) correct?
So I'll test again with harness unplugged at manifold both ends, and opti end of the harness.
Results on pin A and D should be >10v as tested at all 3 connections (On manifold both PCM side and opti side, and then at the opti plug of harness) correct?
I think it may be the harness now. I unplugged the harness from the opti and plugged it into the old opti sitting against a ground. As I moved the harness, because it was very loose, it would click near the coil and the manifold.
Could this mean the PCM suddenly got the signal from the opti and activated the rest of the ignition and fuel injectors?
Could this mean the PCM suddenly got the signal from the opti and activated the rest of the ignition and fuel injectors?
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dbusch22
Forced Induction
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Oct 31, 2016 11:09 AM



