It looks like their is a break in the wire somewhere, any fuses or common braking points?

 

did you ever try spraying carb cleaner in the intake to see if it would hit?

you checked the continuity in the opti harness and you found a break? if so that section of the harness can be replaced pretty cheap or even fixed i suppose.

 

Do like Rob said and either check continuity from end to end or check at the relay for voltage when you turn the key. The continuity test is harder do to the length of the wire. What I do is take a piece of wire and twist it to the wire I'm testing and bring the other end over to the opposite end of the wire in question. Check for continuity as usual. This however will not test the integrity of the connectors. What I suggest you do is pull the relay and with everything connected properly, probe the coil side of the relay. While probing (check for DC voltage) turn the key to the on position. See if the coil gets 12 volts for 2 seconds.

If it's not getting the 12 volts for 2 seconds at the relay then perform the same test at the PCM. (will take 2 people). If the 2 second 12 volt shot is at the PCM and not the relay, the wire is bad. If it's also not at the PCM then the PCM may be bad.

 

I tested continutity from the PCM plug-in to the relay and thir was no continuity. Looking at the wiring diagrams the only thing between the PCM and the Relay is
Their is no voltage from PCM to relay.

------------<<---------
C220

Anyone have anyidea what this is?
My manual says it is on thr RH side in the kick panel and said Something about I/P ( Don't remember exactly) Is ride side Dirvers or Passenger?

Can I turn on the car without the Plug in Connected (the red one) Without any damage?

 

i took my p.o.s. to the shop last night, today they told me everything leads to the opti being bad. but sence i have changed it 2 times they think i might have broken off the end of the cam. i donno. that seems kinda unlikly, i will have to have them pull a cover and see if the value train moves. but he thinks the cam could still spin and be broken at the end. i still think that is highly unlikely. i would think i would have noticed when putting on the opti. and i think i would have heard a cam shaft snap. any thoughts???

 

As always double check your connections and make sure they are not gunked up. Check shoebox's link (in his sig) to his website their is somegood advice and instructions, particularly the one about checking the opti's connection with the PCM

 

C220 location

C220 pinout

 

The cam is not broken. You already told us that if you jump the relay it starts. If the cam were broke at the front end then only the hub would turn with the crank. You would have no compression in most of the cylinders. If it were broke on the other end (depending were) the oil pump drive would not work. The cam aint broke!!!!!

Find the break in the relay wire from the PCM This wire must have continuity and therefore should have voltage during the 2 second test we mentioned.

This shop either doesn't know what their talking about or their pumping you up for a BIG bill. November and December are very slow months for auto repair shops.

Get your car back. Pay them the diagnostic fee and take it back NOW. BTW aren't you the guys who I was talking with before the holiday about "my friends car won't start"?

 

yea that me, im the friend w/ the car that wont start. i sall this post so i have just been posting on this one, i didnt think the cam was broken either. when i jump the relay the coil fires, the car has never started. i think i just got another bad opti. i hear about people going throw a bunch before they get a good one all the time. im not worried about the shop screwing me. i know enough about cars to know if they are trying to pull something. and its not a little dinky broke down shop, so im not real worried about b.s. besides if the cam is broken im not paying them or anyone else to fix it, ill take it right to the shop that built the motor and make them fix it. cause cams dont break. im probly going to tell them to just put another opti on. i know its easy and they will charge to much. but i have meesed w/ that car for 3 weeks and done 2 opti;s and im done. i will pay the fee. ill let you know what happens. thanks

 

well the unthinkable has happened, it had nothing to do w/ ignition, my cam is not spinning. i sall it for myself. must be a gear or chain. i have to wounder how many values i bent or broke, any ideas on how much clearence a 383 stroker w/ 11+ to 1 compression has? i hope enough. i woul hate to have to get the heads reworked. looks like it is time for the car to take a trip to the shop that built the motor. damnit to hell. its a bad day in december!

 

Am I the only one confused by this whole story. In another thread it had fuel and no spark. In this thread it had no fuel and ran fine when the relay was jumped. Then 2 threads up (2nd from last) someone says the car never ran. WTF is the real story. Is it any wonder people get frustrated here some times.

 

well here is my car and than there is the firehawk0152 guy! does that help?

 

You're a hijacked thread victim. 2 story lines going on, here.

 

does that mean im the hijacker???

 

The thead is all yours StrkdFormula383. I found my problem. A mouse was looking for a warm spot to nest this winter, it just happened to be my wiring harness. It chewed through it, and caused everything to break, short out, and go haywire. Needles to say I killed it in the least humane way possible.