what is this mod about? and how do u do it, or is it worth doing??

let me know

thnx

 

Its worth doing:

http://etdrop.raleigh.ibm.com/ccb/Of...45/repository/

Just take the coolant line from the left side of the tb and join it with the right side line with a 3/8" connector and two clamps. Takes 2 mins to do with practically pocket change.

However, if your in Ontario, you may want to think twice because the coolant going through the tb keeps the blades from freezing in very cool weather.

 

I've never heard of the blades freezing.

 

me either... I thought it was another emission thing... warmer air = less O2 > less fuel = less power.

 

Wikipedia:

Carburetor (or Carburettor) heat (usually abbreviated to 'carb heat') is a system used in piston-powered light aircraft to help prevent or clear carburetor icing. It is usually manually controlled by the pilot. It consists of a flap which diverts warm air from around the exhaust manifold into the engine's air intake. The warmer air will usually clear any icing present within the carburetor.

Icing occurs in certain conditions due to the venturi within the carburetor, which raises the velocity of the air in the carburetor, which lowers its pressure (see Bernoulli's principle) and hence temperature (Boyle's Law). If the outside air is already at a low temperature, the temperature in the carburetor can drop below the freezing point of water, and if the air is humid, ice can form inside the carburetor, narrowing the aperture of the throat, which can create an even stronger venturi effect, and so forth. If left unchecked, the carburetor will eventually malfunction which will cause an engine failure, an emergency situation. Temperature drops of 20 °C or more are often encountered within the carburetor, and so icing can occur even on relatively warm days. Also, the adiabatic lapse rate (temperature drop) is around 2 °C per thousand feet, so it is really the humidity of the air which is the more important indicator of potential icing conditions. Perhaps paradoxically, winter flying is often less prone to icing, since cold weather is rarely associated with high humidity, and the air temperature can drop so far below freezing that there can be little or no water vapour in the air to begin with.

The diversion of warm air into the intake reduces the thermodynamic efficiency of the engine, which will be manifest as a slight reduction in power while carb heat is applied. The reduction in power indicates to the pilot that there is no icing present, a reassuring piece of information. If there is icing, applying carb heat may not show this initial reduction, and as the ice clears there may be an increase in power. In the case of icing, it must be kept in mind that the ingestion of small amounts of water into the engine following melting in the carburetor may cause an initial period of rough running for us much as one or two minutes before the power increase is noted. Again, the pilot will note this as evidence that icing conditions are present. The intake air of an aircraft engine equipped with a turbo-supercharger is heated through compression, preventing ice formation and offering a natural means to supply carb heating without having to duct air from the exhaust manifold. A turbocharged aircraft is likely to have no 'carb heat' switch, instead the pilot will have to increase power into the turbocharger stage to bring de-icing into effect.

Engines equipped with fuel injection do not require carb heat or an analogous system as they are not prone to icing.

Which begs the question "Why?". The answer is probably smog related.

 

ok sounds good, the link tho doesnt work, anyone have a link to where she works?? as well is there any actual hp gains from this?? and if so, does anyone else have any lil tweaks that are hp gains for our cars

thnx

 

its worth doing for 1 it can free up 2-5 RWHP and costs $0-$5 depending on the model of your car.

Use the search there is a list of free and cheap mods you can do.

 

i have checked and the search wont work for me, dunno why, so if anyone can post the links id be more then thankful

and shes a 97

 

as well couldnt i get a new piece of hose, and just run it that way, instead of connecting it?

 

http://shbox.com/1/tb_bypass.jpg

Not sure why the search will not work for you. Info about the TB bypass has been posted about a zillion times.

 

You don't even need another peice of hose. All you need to do is take the hose off of the right side of the TB and take the one off of the left side of the TB and put the right side one on the metal line that runs to the back of the intake. Then just put some rubber caps on your water lines on the TB. That's it!

 

Ok. It has been posted a very large number of times. The point is: it should have been easy to find. Happy?

 

I think the mod is well worth it...just dont get the opti wet like i did. thank god mine was alright after that...

 

What was the point of this? I think Shoebox, of all people, is entitled to use whatever words he chooses, because he's always helpful.

 

just out of curiosity.. everything i find on the tb bypass links me back to that pick from shoebox, but the picture says 95-97. Is this mod different on the 94 model? ive been considering getting around to it for some time, but this always leads me back astray from it.