Suggestions Needed...
Suggestions Needed...
Ok guys, this post is going to be a long one. Hopefully, I can adequatly describe the situation and get some much needed help. We've (Project Car between me and my buddy) posted a couple times before and as the car sits now, it still has the same lingering issues:
This car was originally purchased about 5 years ago by my best friend completly stock. In the previous 5 years, it has went from stock to a mild bolt-on car with a few issues (Bigger Injectors with no tune and a slipping A4, couple minor oil leaks,high mileage, typical Lt1 problems...) to Full Bolt-on and Cam only with a B-body Lt1 and Iron heads, which is how it sits right now.
The list of mods (ones currently on the car): I'm going to start with simple bolt-ons to the cam to other minor fixes/mods installed on the car and then include links to one of the latest log and scan along with the latest tune.
Bolt-ons:
K/n Intake
Descreened MAF (Currently, can ONLY run Open Loop due to throwing MAF code.)
Pacesetter Long Tube Headers with emmisions delete
3" Offroad Y-pipe (No CAT)
3" Intermediate pipe into Electronic Cutout with "Stock-Type" Cheap replacement muffler with turn downs
A/C Delete Pulley (We removed ALL of the A/C stuff: Condensor, Pump, All of the lines, even pulled the wiring with connectors out of the harness. {More info/questions later about this one})
EGR Block-off Plates
AIR Pump removed w/ Vaccume cap on the K/N
Inside the Engine:
1.6 Roller Rockers
Beehive 918 Springs
.050 Locks
Comp Cams Custom Grind very close to CC-306 but on a 114 LSA
(I believe that's it for internals. I'm going to double check tomorrow with my buddy and edit as needed)
What's been done to the car (well the rest of it anyways...)
Originally it was an A4 but 4 automatics later, my buddy finally made the swap to an M6. I was active duty in the USMC at the time so I wasn't helping him with any of it and he kinda just did a hack-job "to just get it moving again..." as he puts it. The M6 came out of a '95 w/ 56,000 on it. Previously, it was my tranny and I had all the parts to it but since '94 to '95 wiring harnesses are a little bit different he just hacked and spliced my harness into his original one. The only thing that I know is wired up right would be the VSS because I fixed that about a month ago. As for the reverse lock-out selenoid and the lights, that's not quite right yet but I really don't think those issues would be causing our REAL problems. The rear of the housing has a broken mount for the lock-out seleniod (my fault from the previous car it was in) which is why those items haven't been fixed yet... Gotta find a new rear section to bolt onto it.
On the last go-round of parts/quick fixes; we pulled the engine harness and I began repairing the cut-n-splice hackjob that was done for the M6. At the same time since the car no longer has EGR/AIR I also went ahead and pulled those wires completly out of the harness. I also, decided to delete all of the A/C wiring. When I did this, there was a green wire for the A/C (PCM pin B21) that went into a small section of heat-sink tubing and also had another green wire coming out of it on the same side that went to the A/C and on the other side had 2 black wires going to grounds I believe. Is that right? Can anyone explain what/where those 2 wires went to? I've kinda spaced on exact specs since I did that.
Lastly, We took all the grounds and shortened them up a tiny bit and grounded them out to the closest spot on the block in individual locations and then installed a 4 guage frame to block ground.
Previously, before we had tuning capabilities, the VATS went out of the car so my buddy had installed a push-button start that still remains on the car even though we have VATS programed out of the car. It's a heavy-duty push button that comes from +12v Battery feed to the button to the starter. We have to turn the key to the "On" position and then push the push-button in order to start the car.
The tune:
At first, we called Ion and sent him the PCM. Told him what the car was going to have done and got that all set-up from him. When we got the PCM back and started the car, it was WAYYYY too rich so we ordered TunerCATS and all the cables so we could start working on it ourselves. So far all I've really done from the base tune that Ion sent us was turn-off a couple diagnostic codes and SLIGHTLY adjusted a couple different tables/constants trying to lean out the engine somewhat since we know it's still way too rich, however that really hasn't helped out much. Also, I had to 0 out the Knock Tables just to be able to work around our knock counts until we get that figured out.
Okay, I think that's basically it as far as mods go.. Now on to the problems..
When we go to start the car, it usually takes 3 tries. Every now and agian only twice, and sometimes after loading a new tune, on the first try but that doesn't happen very often and definatly doesn't happen after the initial start with a new tune.
After the car finally starts, immediatley the rev's jump up to around 1500, sometimes as high as 1800. And at that point, never falls below that point without a load on the engine (I.e. moving or just in gear...) And of course, the thing smells pig-rich.
When we take the car out on the road, she'll always feel sluggish and sometimes start to stumble. It feels like she wants to pull but never really does.
And now onto the things that I know are wrong with the car:
If you look at the logs, you can see a million and one counts of knock. I'm fairly certain that it's just from the exhaust. We do have new poly motor mounts to go on the car and hopefully we can get them installed on the car tomorrow.
Desired idle in our logs indicate a value of 3187 and even FreeScan shows that value. I'm not exactly sure as to why?!?!
Always throws a code for the MAF Failure so we turned off closed-loop until we start to get somewhere with all the other issues. Once we did that, the car starts throwing a high-res failure but that goes away if we enable the MAF again.
I dunno wtf is going on there... However, we've tested all the wiring for the MAF and Opti and everything checked out fine using our multimeter.
Seriously, I'm almost tempted to burn this car to the ground and just start over but then I have to tell myself that all of this will be water under the bridge as soon as we get everything worked out.
Yea right..
And lastly, heres the link containing our log and tune:
http://www.mediafire.com/YouCantMacThis
Thanks guys. I know this will definatly become an ongoing post as we work out every little problem and move onto the next, I'm just wondering where we should begin after we get the motor mounts installed.
This car was originally purchased about 5 years ago by my best friend completly stock. In the previous 5 years, it has went from stock to a mild bolt-on car with a few issues (Bigger Injectors with no tune and a slipping A4, couple minor oil leaks,high mileage, typical Lt1 problems...) to Full Bolt-on and Cam only with a B-body Lt1 and Iron heads, which is how it sits right now.
The list of mods (ones currently on the car): I'm going to start with simple bolt-ons to the cam to other minor fixes/mods installed on the car and then include links to one of the latest log and scan along with the latest tune.
Bolt-ons:
K/n Intake
Descreened MAF (Currently, can ONLY run Open Loop due to throwing MAF code.)
Pacesetter Long Tube Headers with emmisions delete
3" Offroad Y-pipe (No CAT)
3" Intermediate pipe into Electronic Cutout with "Stock-Type" Cheap replacement muffler with turn downs
A/C Delete Pulley (We removed ALL of the A/C stuff: Condensor, Pump, All of the lines, even pulled the wiring with connectors out of the harness. {More info/questions later about this one})
EGR Block-off Plates
AIR Pump removed w/ Vaccume cap on the K/N
Inside the Engine:
1.6 Roller Rockers
Beehive 918 Springs
.050 Locks
Comp Cams Custom Grind very close to CC-306 but on a 114 LSA
(I believe that's it for internals. I'm going to double check tomorrow with my buddy and edit as needed)
What's been done to the car (well the rest of it anyways...)
Originally it was an A4 but 4 automatics later, my buddy finally made the swap to an M6. I was active duty in the USMC at the time so I wasn't helping him with any of it and he kinda just did a hack-job "to just get it moving again..." as he puts it. The M6 came out of a '95 w/ 56,000 on it. Previously, it was my tranny and I had all the parts to it but since '94 to '95 wiring harnesses are a little bit different he just hacked and spliced my harness into his original one. The only thing that I know is wired up right would be the VSS because I fixed that about a month ago. As for the reverse lock-out selenoid and the lights, that's not quite right yet but I really don't think those issues would be causing our REAL problems. The rear of the housing has a broken mount for the lock-out seleniod (my fault from the previous car it was in) which is why those items haven't been fixed yet... Gotta find a new rear section to bolt onto it.
On the last go-round of parts/quick fixes; we pulled the engine harness and I began repairing the cut-n-splice hackjob that was done for the M6. At the same time since the car no longer has EGR/AIR I also went ahead and pulled those wires completly out of the harness. I also, decided to delete all of the A/C wiring. When I did this, there was a green wire for the A/C (PCM pin B21) that went into a small section of heat-sink tubing and also had another green wire coming out of it on the same side that went to the A/C and on the other side had 2 black wires going to grounds I believe. Is that right? Can anyone explain what/where those 2 wires went to? I've kinda spaced on exact specs since I did that.
Lastly, We took all the grounds and shortened them up a tiny bit and grounded them out to the closest spot on the block in individual locations and then installed a 4 guage frame to block ground.
Previously, before we had tuning capabilities, the VATS went out of the car so my buddy had installed a push-button start that still remains on the car even though we have VATS programed out of the car. It's a heavy-duty push button that comes from +12v Battery feed to the button to the starter. We have to turn the key to the "On" position and then push the push-button in order to start the car.
The tune:
At first, we called Ion and sent him the PCM. Told him what the car was going to have done and got that all set-up from him. When we got the PCM back and started the car, it was WAYYYY too rich so we ordered TunerCATS and all the cables so we could start working on it ourselves. So far all I've really done from the base tune that Ion sent us was turn-off a couple diagnostic codes and SLIGHTLY adjusted a couple different tables/constants trying to lean out the engine somewhat since we know it's still way too rich, however that really hasn't helped out much. Also, I had to 0 out the Knock Tables just to be able to work around our knock counts until we get that figured out.
Okay, I think that's basically it as far as mods go.. Now on to the problems..
When we go to start the car, it usually takes 3 tries. Every now and agian only twice, and sometimes after loading a new tune, on the first try but that doesn't happen very often and definatly doesn't happen after the initial start with a new tune.
After the car finally starts, immediatley the rev's jump up to around 1500, sometimes as high as 1800. And at that point, never falls below that point without a load on the engine (I.e. moving or just in gear...) And of course, the thing smells pig-rich.
When we take the car out on the road, she'll always feel sluggish and sometimes start to stumble. It feels like she wants to pull but never really does.
And now onto the things that I know are wrong with the car:
If you look at the logs, you can see a million and one counts of knock. I'm fairly certain that it's just from the exhaust. We do have new poly motor mounts to go on the car and hopefully we can get them installed on the car tomorrow.
Desired idle in our logs indicate a value of 3187 and even FreeScan shows that value. I'm not exactly sure as to why?!?!
Always throws a code for the MAF Failure so we turned off closed-loop until we start to get somewhere with all the other issues. Once we did that, the car starts throwing a high-res failure but that goes away if we enable the MAF again.
I dunno wtf is going on there... However, we've tested all the wiring for the MAF and Opti and everything checked out fine using our multimeter.Seriously, I'm almost tempted to burn this car to the ground and just start over but then I have to tell myself that all of this will be water under the bridge as soon as we get everything worked out.
Yea right..And lastly, heres the link containing our log and tune:
http://www.mediafire.com/YouCantMacThis
Thanks guys. I know this will definatly become an ongoing post as we work out every little problem and move onto the next, I'm just wondering where we should begin after we get the motor mounts installed.
Last edited by FBodyBros; Apr 2, 2009 at 05:04 AM. Reason: Link wasn't working.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tommalcolm
Computer Diagnostics and Tuning
2
Sep 11, 2015 03:39 PM



