Suggestions on cooling my 383
Suggestions on cooling my 383
Before the rebuild, I was able to run my 350 at 177 - 185 F all day long and even while racing. Now with my 383, I am constantly up in the lower 190 - 200 range so both fans are consistenly on as I have them set for 185 F. I ran water wetter this time as I did before the rebuild and do have the 160 thermostat. The only difference: now I have an EWP!
Granted, I have not dyno tuned my rebuild yet to optimum timing but doubt pulling 5 degrees like I did across the board would make such a drastic change in my coolant temps.
Any suggestions on what to do?
Granted, I have not dyno tuned my rebuild yet to optimum timing but doubt pulling 5 degrees like I did across the board would make such a drastic change in my coolant temps.
Any suggestions on what to do?
Interesting. I bought my Meizere 55gph electric water pump for the hp gain but to my surprise it also greatly aided in cooling my car. Made a big difference with the A/C on in the summer and slow traffic. Does not overheat.
I had better results upgrading the cooling fans to a dual Spal setup than I had using a BeCool radiator with factory fans or a large single 16" fan. The larger radiator was not an easy fit due to my s/c pulleys. Ended up going back to the stock radiator with better fans. You may not have less fitment issues if you don't have a s/c but I'd upgrade the fans first. Use a dual setup that pulls over 2700 cfm.
It's a semi-well built piece but rather expensive considering what you can get as far as fans for that price. With the Becool, I had to run a single 16" Spal fan for fitment. It cooled better on the highway but my issue was with city driving, stop and go. The single 16" with about 2400 cfm wasn't enough. I ended up getting rid of the radiator when it rotted out. Not sure why it did but the core was too thin to patch by welding. I now have a stock radiator with Spal dual 11" fans. Cools better in town. Perhaps the 16" didn't cover enough of the radiator but the Spal setup pulls over 2700cfm and its a thin setup and I have a manual fan switch. I'm not sure, but I've heard electric waterpumps also cause fitment issues with a larger radiator. Make sure you check measurements.
The Becool holds more fluid but you still need the fan CFM to cool it back down. It'll just take longer to heat up.
I've heard Griffin makes a stock size radiator but as I see it the only advantage with it is the aluminum tanks.
I'd try upgraded fans first. You can also check into Zirgo fans. They make some good, high CFM fans too.
The Becool holds more fluid but you still need the fan CFM to cool it back down. It'll just take longer to heat up.
I've heard Griffin makes a stock size radiator but as I see it the only advantage with it is the aluminum tanks.
I'd try upgraded fans first. You can also check into Zirgo fans. They make some good, high CFM fans too.
Last edited by joe-96z1le; Feb 15, 2007 at 05:45 PM.
I'm running the BeCool with the stock electric fans (pass side fan relocated in front of the shroud, instead of behind it like stock for a little more clearance on the EWP) and a Meziere pump, and I have barely gotten up to 180 degrees yet; granted its cold here (been in the 30s) and its a fresh motor, but it is a 12.3:1 383 and I'm not anticipating any cooling problems. The factory dual fan setup should be fine; I can only see changing it if you don't have the room (due to a supercharger and an aftermarket radiator/EWP).
I live in Phoenix as well and have the same problem. I run a 12:1 compression 353ci. I have a low temp thermostat, just water/water wetter, and have a 180 fan turn on. Mine runs just fine in the winter, but will get very hot in the summer. I run a stock replacement water pump as I don't trust an electric.
My next step I guess is a BeCool or Griffin radiator.
My next step I guess is a BeCool or Griffin radiator.
I live in Phoenix as well and have the same problem. I run a 12:1 compression 353ci. I have a low temp thermostat, just water/water wetter, and have a 180 fan turn on. Mine runs just fine in the winter, but will get very hot in the summer. I run a stock replacement water pump as I don't trust an electric.
My next step I guess is a BeCool or Griffin radiator.
My next step I guess is a BeCool or Griffin radiator.
Hmmm
I have a 160 stat, fans on @ 175, 357ci, and it barely moves off the first mark fully warmed up.
Granted I don't have the cubes you do looks like we have similar compression. Have you checked the simple stuff? Air in the system? Which water pump? I used the summit brand and have no problems.
Try lowering your fan temp to see if it helps. Set it at 165 or so and see how much your temp drops.
I have a 160 stat, fans on @ 175, 357ci, and it barely moves off the first mark fully warmed up.
Granted I don't have the cubes you do looks like we have similar compression. Have you checked the simple stuff? Air in the system? Which water pump? I used the summit brand and have no problems.
Try lowering your fan temp to see if it helps. Set it at 165 or so and see how much your temp drops.
Before the rebuild, I was able to run my 350 at 177 - 185 F all day long and even while racing. Now with my 383, I am constantly up in the lower 190 - 200 range so both fans are consistenly on as I have them set for 185 F. I ran water wetter this time as I did before the rebuild and do have the 160 thermostat. The only difference: now I have an EWP!
Granted, I have not dyno tuned my rebuild yet to optimum timing but doubt pulling 5 degrees like I did across the board would make such a drastic change in my coolant temps.
Any suggestions on what to do?
Granted, I have not dyno tuned my rebuild yet to optimum timing but doubt pulling 5 degrees like I did across the board would make such a drastic change in my coolant temps.
Any suggestions on what to do?
Last edited by Joe B; Feb 16, 2007 at 02:50 PM.
If your not already, try running straight "distilled" water (like many others do)with the water wetter type additive(that you already use) for lubrication and as the rust and corrosion inhibitor.......As you probably know, water cools MUCH MUCH better than antifreeze.........(ofcourse, if your local weather permits it's use without a freeze worry)...........Joe

Thanks for that but I already run like 90/10. Freezing is never an issue here.
And for all you reading this, ALWAYS use distilled water. Regular water is a bad thing for cooling systems. Don't get lazy and say "awww it don't matter".
Didn't know that, or heard it a long time ago and forgot. Thanks for the tip.


