as time comes closer for me to start my 383 buildup, i wanted to see how many people built a high hp LT1 and had nothing MAJOR go wrong with it. ive seen a few horror stories lately about people putting 1000 miles on their brand new high dollar engine and then cracking the heads, blowing head gaskets, running too rich, or other problems. anyone had good/bad luck doing this? lets hear your stories!

 

What is it you want to know? What went wrong? What would you do again? What was done right? There is a lot to what you ask.

 

what went wrong? what went right? what would you do again? what would you change? what were your mistakes? what companies/parts would you recommend? what companies/parts would you not recommend? what advice would you have for a first time engine builder who has done alot of research and reading but never REALLY built a motor before and cant afford to screw it up yet needs to do it himself to learn?

 

i had bearing problems within the first 50 miles with my professionally assembled short block. Pulled the motor, they fixed the short block, i reassembled the rest of the motor and installed. So far no troubles this time, it runs excellent with a base tune it made 460rwhp all motor. If i were to do it again i would have just boosted in the end i would have made more power for the same or not much more money.

Scott

 

I like this thread already. I am interested to hear what people have to say. I am currently restoring a 1994 T/a. The one in my sig. When I got it, it was a frame and all of the original body panels. I had to buy the front and rear suspention, rear end, tranny, motor..ect. It has been a absolute blast rebuilding this car. I have soooo much time in this car I will more than likly be in tears when the motor turns over, and I get to drive it down the street. You must, must, must, take your time and research everything over and over. This website alone has tought me everything I know about these cars. It is the best tool you can have. People on this board will go out of their way to help you with info and part numbers.
Also remember Jason Cromer is the MAN!!

My brother's and I rebuilt a 1995 M6, formula with a stage 3 Race LT4 top end, 12 bolt, 3:73's, CC306 cam & headers. Once we got the misfire figured out ( Intake manifold leak) the car is scary.... stupid fast! All in all, everything went great. Now the formula is getting a complete tune up, duals, ractronix fuel system, 42 lb injectors, 58mm T body, brakes, bilstine shocks, hotchkis springs 1 " drop & a dyno tune. It is getting ready for The Hot Rod Power Tour 2007 You better belive we represent LT1's all day!!!! I am thinking BAD LT4 for the licence plates.
Steve

 

my friend and i did a 383 for his 95 z last year. everything has gone really well. he had a few ignition issues up front (spark plugs, wires, etc). other than that though, the car starts up everytime and is absolutely reliable.

so, no horror stories here.

having said that, i think its all about the combination. the right short block, heads, cam, intake, injectors, fuel system, tune and other supporting items go a long way to preventing some of the issues i have seen come up around here. take your time, do some research, decide what you want (goals, hp, etc), find yourself a reputable builder that knows ltx stuff and give it a go.

sometimes things do go wrong even when you have planned properly and made the right choices; but fortunately, those are the exception, not the rule.

just my opinion on the matter.

 

contact bret, lloyd, and victory racing engines and u can have a heck of a reliable, yet high HP LT1

 

I put a lot of research into my rebuild...a tremendous amount coming from this site. The one thing I would change is I would have done more cam research and probably would have gone with a custom cam. Mind you, my cam does exactly what I want it to do at the RPM I want but I think I could have gotten a bit more out of it if I had researched a bit more.

Make sure and do an internal balance motor and zero balance the flywheel. Also, I wish I had gone with an aluminum flywheel.

Pay real close attention to quench. I would have gone even tighter than 0.040 if I had enough research showing I wasn't going to be kissing my heads with the piston.

Spend time and attention to your DCR NOT your SCR.

 

What I have seen and what has actually happened to me. Make sure to double and trible check your parts! Make sure they are exactly what you need. I had gotten the wrong valve springs, and bent a few valves. Use new head bolts, I never had this problem but its something that doesnt need to be skipped. Check piston to valve clearence B4 you put the heads on. Tac weld your oil pump pickup tube!!! The screen I have seen falls off the pump. Get you block magnafluxed!!! You dont want any unknown crack or weaknesses in your block!

 

What is DCR and SCR, something----compression ratio....?

 

Ironxcross:

http://members.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html

This will help get you started.

 

What do you consider a "high" hp LT1?


If you are talking about lower 600's at the flywheel normally aspirated.....ALOT comes into play if you plan ANY street duty.


David

 

Idk how much horsepower my motor is pushing. But everything went together really good beings how this was my first build like this. Only real issue with it is when the motor is cold int he morning you have to pump the gas a little bit to get it started and will die if you dont keep foot on the gas for a min or so. Not a real big deal but just a little anoyance.

 

Sounds like you just need a tune. Higher idle.

 

Accel injectors are known to cause hard starting, beyond that I would suspect the regulator leaking down or tuning issues.

RESEARCH is the most important part. These days there are some rather reliable "budget" parts which will work well. If things do not match though the package will not work no matter what the quality of individual pieces.