I keep reading that subframe connectors will keep your chassis and body in perfect unison and prevent the car from 'twisting'. But my car is a 96 (with T-tops), is it still worth it to pay $180 for them or is my car already 'twisted' so that they wont line up. I dont have any problems with my doors and only my passenger t-top slightly leaks, little drips that i think are because of the dying window not making it all the way up. Anybody else put these on and notice any difference?

 

Your frame shouldn't be twisted. The main part is they don't let the frame flex when you take corners. I would highly recommend you getting a set. I got mine for just over 120 from BMR. Big difference in handling, probably even more since you have t-tops.

 

I have T-tops and i put in Kenny Brown Double Diamonds. They make a world of difference.IMO.

 

(Correct me if I am wrong) but no one on this board is going to tell you that they DIDNT like their SFC's regardless of who makes them (I went with MAC ). IMOP, you might want to spring for the more expensive Kenny Brown SFC's as they appear to be a better design. (That is what I wish I had done). Another piece of advice, buy the weld-ons. They are stiffer than the bolt-ons. Hope this helps.

 

I have the SLP bolt-ons and you can DEFINITELY feel the difference. I have T-tops and when I took a parkway ramp with the tops off, I was in cornering heaven ! Just a word about installation: My passenger side connector did not line up with the holes initially. The technical support guy at SLP told me that some of the F-body chassis' tended to be manufactured with some bowing in some instances. In other words, the chassis' are not perfect But this does not necessarily imply integrity issues or cause for alarm. Its just part of life with some cars and maybe yours will line up perfectly. I ended up having to elongate a couple of holes and all else went smooth after that. I used a dremel with a tungsten carbide tip to do this. Also I used ramps at all four corners to ensure that the car was at the ride height. This is very important when you are installing these. The extra install time was well worth it though. I loved this upgrade ! Good luck.

 

Have you inspected the SFC's and the subframes to make sure the elongated holes are holding the SFC's in position and not slipping? Have you looked for signs of "tearing" at the bolt holes.... supposedly the major problems with bolt-ons?

Not busting 'nads here.... just trying to see how true the stories about "tearing" are......

 

I had Hotchkis on my 2000 Z28 and they were good.... But then I went with BMR boxed weld-in for my 1995 "toy" car, and I will tell you the BMR's are way more "heavy duty" and they cost less to boot.

I'd go with weld-ins... no worry about holes lining up, bolts loosening, etc.... Yes, they'll make a big difference!

-Michael

 

Is welding the bolt on style sub frame connectors a good idea? Bolting and welding should be strong right?

 

That's what I was thinking......But OTOH they would weigh more too.

 

I just got mine welded in yday and so far I have not done enough driving to notice a difference. It seemed smoother through one good turn but that is all I got. The car definitely feels different though. Like driving down the street it feels it all goes one way with the car instead of flexing. Not hard to weld in either. Took about an hour.

 

Try a few speed bumps and you'll notice it for sure!

 

Injuneer, No problem . I haven't driven around too much since I installed the SFC's to notice of this occurring (tearing). The only advantage these bolt-ins have is in the way they are "clamped" in by the sleel pieces that you have to slide into the cavity above the chassis where you thread the bolts through. But I suppose all the bolt-in varieties would use this design since I don't see there being any other way to do it with the existing holes that are available. I really tightened the hell out of those bolts though. The bolts that tie the thin cross brace below the torque arm and driveshaft I did not really bare down on as much. These bolts don't appear as strong as the ones supplied with the SFC's. They use the threaded welded holes that are originally just used for that brace..... Eventually I just might have a muffler shop weld them in. I did like the fact that these connectors were painted. But loose "painted" subframe connectors are just as good as no SFC's at all.....

 

definitely worth the money. BMRs weld-ins on mine.

 

wow, your weighing the bolts?? damn man, can we say WTF??

 

have the opportunity to buy some J&M subframe connectors for a decent price. Are they just as good as the SLP and BMR or are they a waste of money?