Street or Drag Radials?
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Registered User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4
From: Missouri
Street or Drag Radials?
I recently bought nitto drag radials...275-40-17...and soon after made my first trip to the track. I ran a 13.6, my car seems as thought it is a little slower taking off now, don't get me wrong it went from burning the tires through 1st and a littl into second, to not peeling out at all.{a4} and my 60 foot time is 2.0, but I have no times to sompare it to, could the slicks have slowed me down. I don't picture the 60 foot time getting any better than that, but I got beat off the line for the first time by another 95 a4 with stock gears and stret tires.
95 z28 moroso cai, bbk headers, flowtechmuffler, 160 therm,tpis 52mm tb, 3:73 auburn posi,shift kit,tpis computer work, fuel pressure regulator
95 z28 moroso cai, bbk headers, flowtechmuffler, 160 therm,tpis 52mm tb, 3:73 auburn posi,shift kit,tpis computer work, fuel pressure regulator
Last edited by Dickydoodave; Aug 5, 2003 at 01:44 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 905
From: Orlando, FL
I'm having trouble making sense of your post. You say you bought drag radials, but then you mention slicks
? Then you say you used to spin the tires and now you don't, but you don't have any times to compare with?
? Then you say you used to spin the tires and now you don't, but you don't have any times to compare with?
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 870
From: Indianola, MS
I ran into the same problem when I went to Nittos. My 60' was worse than that of street tires. It's so sticky that it bogs the car down. I'm still running a stock converter. I believe going with a higher stall torque converter will help reducing the 60' on DRs. My 60' times below.
60' street tires: 2.014
60' Nittos: 2.3-2.5
60' street tires: 2.014
60' Nittos: 2.3-2.5
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 616
From: West Palm Beach, FL
If you're bogging you need to give it more gas. It sounds like you need to launch harder than you used to. Rev it as high as you can at the light without overpowering your brakes, then put as much into as you can without spinning when the light goes.
And yes, a high stall converter will allow you to rev higher at the line than the stock.
This is of course an idea if you're not already doing it.
And yes, a high stall converter will allow you to rev higher at the line than the stock.
This is of course an idea if you're not already doing it.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,743
From: Mission, Kansas
Originally posted by toegead93
If you're bogging you need to give it more gas. It sounds like you need to launch harder than you used to. Rev it as high as you can at the light without overpowering your brakes, then put as much into as you can without spinning when the light goes.
And yes, a high stall converter will allow you to rev higher at the line than the stock.
This is of course an idea if you're not already doing it.
If you're bogging you need to give it more gas. It sounds like you need to launch harder than you used to. Rev it as high as you can at the light without overpowering your brakes, then put as much into as you can without spinning when the light goes.
And yes, a high stall converter will allow you to rev higher at the line than the stock.
This is of course an idea if you're not already doing it.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4
From: Missouri
Well as far as gray94v6 not being able to follow what i'm saying I don't know how much easier I can word it. By me saying I have not times to compare with the nittos I mean I didn't take it to the track until after I got the "slicks". By saying I ran better before, I mean compared to how I run on the street. And like alot of people I sometimes call drag radials "street slicks" thus being why I refered to them as slicks once.Everyone else seemed to understand, if it's too complex for ya, just skip to the next topic, and go on.
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