Just picked up a nice '95 Z28 with 130k miles on it. The car has been well maintained and I'm only the third owner and I know the other two that have owned it previously. I've always owned mustangs, so camaros are some what new to me. I'm now working out my plans and goals and I was wondering, how much power can the stock shortblock hold N/A? This will be mainly a weekend car for cruising and some track time.
Thanks,
Brian

 

Every motor seems to be different. Sometimes the bearings go, sometimes it's something else. I wouldn't push the stock bottom end past 6k RPM or >350 rwhp NA.

Everyone will have a different opinion on this, though.

 

hmmm 350rwhp definately won't cut it...guess the bottom ends gonna get some work. Thanks for the info.

 

Like I said, the biggest reason for broken parts seems to be more power and higher RPM. If you can make 400rwhp at 4500 RPM then you would be better off than the guy making 375 at 6500. IMO

 

It really depends on how hard you launch the car. The cast crank and 2-bolt mains can handle up to 550 HP. The hypereutechtic pistons would be the weak points but could handle close to that range but it really depends on cylinder taper and piston slap. The rods are ok but are typically upgraded.

You can spray N2O up to 150 and be ok on a stock bottom end.

Some people can supercharge boost up to 8# and be ok for a while... 6# is safer on those hypereutechtic pistons.

Rotating assemblies are fairly inexpensive and Scat Cast Cranks, rods, and pistons can handle 650 HP. A less expensive option would be to upgrade the pistons and rods to forged components then stud the mains. That should hold up to 550 HP with the crank being the weak point.

What's your application? Drag? Street? Weekend Fun? Rally? Corner Acceleration? Drifting?

 

but unlike many 5.0s, i have never heard of a LT1 cracking the block

 

I agree with Seawolf, it is better to make the power without the HP.

Since you are new to the LT1, the advantage of this engine is that it makes the power down low and the reverse cooled heads are a plus.

Do you have an A/T or M/T? There are a lot of things you can do with this engine.

 

It's a Manual trans and as I mentioned before, I want to make it my weekend cruiser with the occassional trip to the track. This summer I want to get the engine built, over the winter I plan on doing the suspension and rear. I'd like to shoot for about 425-450rwhp N/A and also throw in a shot of nitrous. I know what the decent 302 and 306 Fords can do when built right, so I'm pretty excited about the potential of a 350. After doing more research, I decided forged internals are going to be needed. And besides, might as well plan ahead because I know I'm always going to want more power and better times.

 

If you are going to get the engine built, then just go with a 383. You'll get great power/torque and with a good cam will get right in that zone with heads and programming.

For heads, check out Lloyd Elliot at www.eportworks.com or the guys at www.advancedinduction.com they have some pretty impressive stuff for stock heads.

 

Thanks for the info everyone. I decided I'm going to go through advancedinduction.com and pick up a 383 rotating assembly and will probably also pick up a heads/cam package from them along with a ported intake. eportworks.com has great offers as well, but I prefer to deal with just one company at this point, makes things much easier. And of course, will keep everyone updated on the progress.
Thanks again,
Brian

 

i know eric @ victoryracingengines.com was gonna team up with advancedinduction.com and offer some pretty mean longblocks, might check into that

 

And or, a Golen engine with the now available LE heads. Either way would be a great set-up. Wish I had the money for a stronger shortblock. I wanna spray, as in "BIG SPRAY".