When I turn the key to start my 94 Z28 it acts as it would if you try to start it in drive. When I turn the key on all my dash lights go on and I can hear the fuel pump go on. I took the starter out and had it tested at Kragen and it's fine. I have a full charge on my battery and I've checked both ends of both the negative and the positive cables coming off the battery. When I use a jumper wire from the small lug (purple wire) to the hot lug (positive battery cable) on the starter it engages.

I have tried both sets of keys, I tried to jiggle the key as I turn it to the start position but nothing.

It seems as though everything is starting to point at the ignition switch but I'm not sure.

I'm baffled. What should be my next step? I know nothing about the vats system and I'm not an electronics whiz.....................

OH, what do I do now? HELP!!

 

This my sound stupid. But, check all the fuses in the fuse panel. My car was doing this EXACT same thing and come to find out, I had a blown fuse. I dont know if this fuse is just for the starter or what. I would turn my key and I would hear this little "ding" sound come from under the dash. My fuel pump and guages and everything still worked tho. Seriously, check out the fuses.

 

did you cross the starter with the key on? you said you used a jumper wire and the starter works. with the key on and you get under the car with a screw driver and jump the starter it should start. I had the same problem once before and thats so I did that and the car started and then for some reason it never has hapened again.

 

This might sound crazy, but it worked for me. Go to the relay box located on the forward of the driver side fender and swap out relays “J” (coolant fan #3) and “H” (fog lights). They are the same part number. My ’97 Z did the same as you described and as luck would have it, this worked for me. Twice, over a period of about a year.. Just please don’t ask me how or why! And the fog lights worked both times too.

 

I had the same problem also, mine was the ignition switch, had power to everything but would not crank, replaced ignition switch and it fired right up.

 

yea i have the same problem with my 92rs im almost positive that it is the ignition swith. let me know how it goes

 

Try getting an Ohm meter and put it on the starter. As you have someone crank (or try to crank) the engine over see if you are getting close to twelve volts on the meter at the starter. If it way less than 12, then it is ignition related problem.

 

Unplug the vats connector under the steering column and see if it will start. This is what solved my problem. Shoebox has a pic of the connector on his site.

 

I have the same damn problem. I have a wire running directly to the starter from the battery so I can "jump the starter" when the car wont start. OMG has this been pissing me off!

- I get power everything, but no crank.

I will try those relays now.
I will also check the ignition switch after the relays.


- Where is the ignition switch??

 

I would check things like:ignition switch, start-enable relay, neutral switch on the shifter or starter wiring. Any of them can cause what you describe. The ignition switch is on the top of the steering column under the dash.

 

What exactly does that mean? Does the start crank? If it does not crank when you use the key but it does when you jumper the small purple wire to the positive battery cable, then you have a problem in the ignition circuit.

Does the security light come on after an unsuccessful start? If so, your VATS system is not recognizing your key which could be cause by a work key or worn contacts in the ignition cylinder.

If the security light does not come on, check the relay located inside the dashboard to the right of the glovebox. It is a pain to get to but you need to see if it is closing during start. This is the VATS relay mentioned above. It could be defective. If it is closing, then the VATS system is working and you need to check the wire between the ignition key and the VATS relay and the wire between the VATS relay and the starter solenoid (purple wire).

 

Bad news........ Went to the dealer and ordered a new ignition switch. Went through the hassles of replacing it (not easy for a guy my size) then before buttoning everything up tested it and. NOTHING

Once again, when turning the key to the start position the starter does nothing. Acts as if I was trying to start it in Drive. If I jump the starter with the key on it starts.

I've read some comments regarding the security light and the VATS. The security light on my dash goes on and stays on every time the key is turned on and it's been that way for 6 years.

I'm hoping someone can advise me on what to do next. I getting tired of the wife driving my new truck. HELP!!!!

 

Z28Roxy's car did the exact same thing once and it was the VATS relay.

 

i can see this thread is pretty old, but this is exactly the problem i am having with my 1997 z28 after putting in a new engine. i have checked:

1) fuses (both under hood and driver's side dash panel; all ok)
2) starter (jump terminals with a remote starter switch and it engages, so starter assumed ok)
3) relay 'swap' solution mentioned in this thread (didn't help)
4) security/VATS dash light (behaving normally; can hear relay under passenger dash click so seems to be ok)
5) checked shift lever position/connections (ok)

a clue might be i don't hear the fuel pump "whine" i am accustomed to hearing when the key is turned to "ON" suggesting that maybe the signal to turn on the fuel pump (and then probably also allow start) isn't being sent by VATS. this car has been sitting for a LONG time waiting for a new engine... not sure why electrical components that were working would fail after a prolonged period of (garaged) non use w/no power.

i am seeing options for bypassing various relays, etc. but would prefer to properly diagnose and repair the problem and have all of the factory systems working.

does anybody have a picture of what the VATS relay on the passenger side looks like so i can search for a replacement? is it just a standard automotive relay or a specialized GM part?

grateful for any additional tips/suggestions...

 

You don't say exactly what symptoms you're getting, so can't be too specific, but I can tell you letting one sit for a long time usually results in many issues. Ask me how I know this.

If you aren't hearing the fuel pump whine--and aren't sure if you have pressure--I'd start by slapping a FP gauge on the Schrader to see if the fuel system is indeed pressurizing. You should see ~41psi @ KOEO. You can use the FP prime connecter to prime the system. If you don't have fuel pressure, you'll likely need to swap the pump; you can either yank the tank or use the trap-door method (I did the latter). While we're on the fuel system, when you swapped the engine, did you also swap the filter & FPR? When left sitting, the diaphram in the FPR is likely to dry out, affecting FP. Are the injectors new, or retreads? Going over the entire fuel system is warranted when it's been sitting for so long, altho I dunno what all was replaced w/ the engine.

Another possible culprit (as noted above) is the neutral safety switch; it keeps the car from starting when it's in anything other than park. It seems unusual that it would flake out from sitting, but if you jump the car from the starter and it starts, the NSS is often the culprit. It's an inexpensive fix.

Given that it sat for so long, I'd start w/ the fuel system and see where you are.