Hello,

Just to give you a quick background on what has happened to the car recently; it was converted to a single turbocharger system, 383 stroker. The electrical work done included gauges (oil pressure, oil temp, EGT, Boost and WideBand) MSD-Boost-A-Pump and Electric WP.


Today I was trying to start the setup for the first time to break the engine in. I went to connect the battery terminals and as soon as I touch the negative the engine turns over. I disconnected the purple wire that is running to the starter and touched the negative cable to the battery terminal and the engine still cranked. Since my car had been sitting for over a year I assumed it was a faulty starter (jammed) and purchased a new one.

Once I installed the new starter the engine did not crank unless the key was turned. I assumed the problem was solved. I go to start the car and had to crank a bit. After two attempts the car became possessed again and was cranking with the key removed from the ignition (with new starter). I had to disconnect the battery in order to make the cranking stop.

A few other observations that we noticed:

While trying to get the car to start, there was no spark.

When the car became cranking on its own, the security light did not go out.

You could hear the fuel pump prime when the key is in the on position.

After the second starter had cranked on it own, I noticed the scent of burnt oil.

Please share your insight, thanks.

 

How is it cranking with out the purple wire? Should be just the fat black wire and the purple. I had this problem but it was caused by the connection of the black wire touching the connection of the purple ( the flat piece that has a hole in it to bolt to the starter was touching the purple).

 

yeah, the purple was no where near the starter and it still cranked. I had the purple wire removed and resting on the valve cover (not touching metal).

 

So, there is only the positive battery cable (and absolutely no other wires) connected to the starter and it's lug is not touching the lug that the purple wire goes to? If true, are you sure you have the battery cable connected to the correct large terminal? If the positive battery cable was connected to the large terminal that is strapped to the starter motor, the starter motor would immediately run when connected to the battery.

 

This is correct.

Yes, I did confirm the positive battery cable location on each.

While I can see that as feasible; the second starter worked fine for the first few cranks, but then started cranking on its own. Within that 10 minute time span of trying to use the second starter I do not think the large positive wire connected to the starter should have shifted to cause a short.

 

It is hard to see how it is possible for two starters to do the same thing when nothing is connected to or touching the switch lug on the solenoid (where the purple wire goes).

To clarify what I was saying above, if the battery cable was connected to the wrong large lug, the starter motor would run (would be a funny whir sound), but the solenoid would not engage and actually crank (turn) the engine. But you are saying it is cranking... That's hard to figure (unless the solenoid on the newer starter is now malfunctioning).

 

I am baffled too because it is such a simple part and circuit. I will check again to make sure the connections are okay and check back in this evening .. off to work.

 

Took a look at the connections. The positive wire is connected to the correct terminal. The leg that sticks out from the positive terminal (to prevent rotation) seemed very close to the purple wire. I'd guess it was about 1/16". Could this have started to arc after a couple of cranks? Mind you the starter worked as it should have for the first few start attempts and them took the mind of its own.

 

Can you post a picture of the wiring on the starter?

 

1/16th of an inch seems a bit close to me when you are dealing with large amps. I would look t the wires and connectors to see if there is any burning on any of it.. just to make sure it was not arcing.Have you tried connecting the starter to a battery outside of the car? Just to make sure it is not something with your wiring..

 

No, but I did read the resistance between the large positive post and the small post and the meter read 0.3 ohms. To me that would indicate a short because that circuit should be open unless the key is in the cranking position (correct me if I'm wrong).

 

I forgot the cable at work, so I can upload the pix in the morning.

 

Not. the motor will be closed I think. The key itself is what closes the circuit in order to give the motor the power. (think if it like a light bulb. You throw a switch in the wall to turn the bulb on, the bulb itself does not have the on/off switch in it)

 

Isn't that the same thing I just said?

 

No... You tested the circuit within the starter itself. I believe it is always closed, I could be wrong though. One wire is a the hotlead, and the other is a ground wire. when the ground wire is grounded the motor turns. the action of turning the key is what grounds it I would guess. therefor if that is true, then one would think that the there is not an open circuit within the motor? I should get the book out on how they are assembled. Heck. You Could have a short within your ignition switch, which lets the motor start by itself because the ignition switch is shorting.

In fact, a shorting ignition switch would make a whole lot of sense if it is happening with more than one starter.